Epicurean Encounters: Bistro Barbes, Park Hill, Denver

Bistro Barbes is named after a neighborhood in Paris where the chef/owner once lived. According to the manager, the neighborhood is infused with a variety of immigrants. The menu at Bistro Barbes is a fusion of French, Mediterranean, and North Africa.
The restaurant is located in an unfamiliar and rather sketchy part of Park Hill. Other than the glow from the restaurant, there was no other activity around. Walking to the restaurant felt a bit desolate, although once inside, one is quickly ensconced in the cozy and tight space. I counted 32 tops including four at the counter, which is where they could accommodate us on short notice. I have been unsuccessful in securing any reservations at Bistro Barbes since it was named one of 5280's top restaurants, and now I know why.
From our vantage point, I could see the entire staff: three front of house and four in the back. The executive chef was expediting (not cooking but checking orders in and out and ensuring dishes were plated to his specifications). There was a sauté chef, and a pantry chef, and a dish washer doing most dishes by hand. The manager/hostess/bartender/server was the girlfriend of the executive chef. Along with two other servers, they provided attentive service. This place was a study in efficiency.
The menu proved equally succinct. A single page listed the week's menu which consisted of three to four appetizers and four to five entrees. Although limited, there was enough variety in the entrees to please most diners. We were promptly served the amuse bouche (a small bite which is not on the menu but a gift from the chef). It was a chickpea puree with harissa (a mediterranean hot chili pepper paste) atop a house made potato chip. This single bite sets the tone for what's to come. The creamy chickpeas contrasted nicely with the crunch of the potato chip. The harissa provided just enough heat and some color.
We selected a couple of appealing house cocktails. The Boulevardier was reminiscent of a Manhattan with rye, vermouth, and campari. The Winter Margarita with house made mix and tequila had a delicious chili rim, a welcoming touch on a chill winter night. Do not be so foolish as to forgo the baguette and butter. The crust was the perfect golden color and broke with hearty crunch. Kudos to the chef for serving room temperature butter as they do in France. Butter should not be so hard that it doesn't spread, nor so cold that you can't taste it. Unless they don't want you to.
Our appetizer was the ubiquitous pork belly. Everyone has some version these days. I am happy to say Bistro Barbes' pork belly had very little fat unlike many places. The skin could have been crispier, but the apple fennel salad added crunch and sweetness, and the acidity from the pickled purple cabbage slaw balanced the fattiness of the pork belly.
I chose the scallops for my entree. Four substantial sea scallops sat atop beluga lentils (looks like caviar), celery root puree, and a truffle buerre blanc sauce. It was accompanied by a slaw of finely julienned granny smith apples. The dish was well seasoned and the scallops had nice caramelization. I wished for more of the sauce. Don chose what appeared to be the very popular short rib entree. A large, deboned portion of fork tender meat sat atop brie welted spinach and orange cumin carrots and surrounded by beautifully seared, pillowy gnocchi. It was a true comfort dish. We polished off the entrees with a couple glasses of wine from the, again, compact but interesting, list. I had the grenache blanc (from Rhone, France). It was medium bodied, crisp, and dry with hints of apple which was a nice complement to the apples in the scallop dish. Don chose and Italian red, barbera d'alba from piedmont. It held up well to the short rib.
For dessert, the chef took some artistic license. There was a panna cotta with torchon foie gras which was just a little too exotic for me. We opted for the safer pot de creme with three layers: a chocolate ganache base, an expresso custard, and topped with the most delicate and flavorful lemon foam. Having made many tuille (thin wafer cookie) unsuccessfully, I was impressed with the perfectly made tuille garnish. It was equally delicious as it was visually stunning.
I cannot express enough how impressed I am with this little restaurant. Care is oozing out of every pore. I encourage everyone to venture out of their gentrified suburbs and give this place a visit. My sincerest wish is for great success without expansion as this would diminish the soul and character that is Bistro Barbes. Bon appetite!