Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Avanti Food and Beverage, Denver

     Destination food halls first sprang up in coastal cities such as Eataly in Manhattan and The Hall in San Francisco.  Denver recently joined this trend with Avanti Food and Beverage in Highland.  What was once a hardware/variety store has been cleverly converted into a swanky multi-level urban hangout.  The owners smartly kept the original red brick facade thus preserving history.  
    Avanti is open daily at 11am.  There is complimentary valet parking during popular times otherwise you must search for street parking.  Although the exterior of the building is a harmonious marriage of old and new, the interior is all contemporary.  A hostess is stationed at the entrance to answer any questions.  There are a total of seven food vendors, five on the first floor, and two upstairs.  Each level has its own bar and lounging area with two distinct vibes.  The downstairs is darker with a big screen which will be nice on nippy game days.  The upstairs is definitely geared towards nice weather.  The inviting patio with its umbrellas and lovely outdoor furniture affords an unparalleled view of Denver as does the larger roofed outdoor dining room.
    Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available at the bars.  The owner is a friend of Dogfish Head Brewery (previously of Denver, currently in Delaware) and offers 10 of their beers on tap.  A variety of cocktails based on the usual liquors are also available as well as wines.  I recommend grabbing a drink at one of the bars, then sip it while you peruse all the various food purveyors.
    Avanti provides test kitchens for chefs at established restaurants to experiment with new concepts and get a feel for the public's reception.  For instance, on the first floor, the current chef and sous chef from Bonano Concepts' Bones are helming Mijo.  Similar to Bones which is a noodle based eatery, Mijo offers a variety of noodles with your selection of flavor profiles as well as proteins.  However, unlike the traditional Japanese flavors of ramen broth, the flavors at Mijo are a fusion of east and west.  The bowl I selected here was the tare (a combination of caramelized onion, bean sprouts, and napa cabbage) with udon and tofu.  It was surprisingly sweet, tangy, and spicy.  The noodles were plentiful and cooked al diente but the toppings were minimal and bland.  I found the broth a tad too sweet and tart.  The unseasoned tofu cubes were minimally seared and sadly tasteless.
    Having heard good things regarding Quiero Arepas, which was closed on my first visit, a Sunday, we did not miss the opportunity to try one of these Venezuelan street foods.  Your choice of a variety of fillings such as chicken, pork, beef, beans, cheese, avocado, etc. are stuffed into a thick griddled white corn cake and folded like a taco.  We selected the jamon y queso, ham and cheese.  The corn cake was definitely the star.  Crisp on the outside and moist on the inside, it was delicious by itself.  The filling was somewhat lacking in flavor.  The cheese wasn't melty and the beans were bland.  Also, it was one of the smallest items at Avanti.
     Upstairs at Bixo, I had the seafood paella.  Although beautifully presented, it is not a paella for a purist.  First, it is served on a paper plate and not in a paella pan.  I realize this is a fast casual eatery, but the essence of paella is the caramelized crust that developes on the bottom of the rice as it cooks in the pan.  Second, paella is made with short grain bomba rice from Spain.  Here it is made with a long grain rice that stays separated.  I asked the chef what kind of rice it was to which he answered: "you can use any kind of rice, Uncle Ben's works great".  Converted rice?!  I was aghast.  Fortunately, the seafood were all fresh, well cooked, and delicious.  Truth be told, the rice had a nice color and taste but was more reminiscent of Chinese fried rice than any paella I had in Spain.  
    In conclusion, Avanti is a perfect place to hang out with friends after work where you can grab something to eat while you gab and watch the sun set over Denver.  But if you are a purist foodie with high expectations, you may find this place a bit disappointing and pricey.


Avanti Food and Beverage
 
Old Facade

     
Upstairs Patio



     
Upstairs Outdoor Seating



The list of purveyors

Seafood Paella at Bixo

Tare Udon Tofu Noodle bowl at Mijo

Jamon y Queso Arepa at Quiero Arepas

Friday, September 4, 2015

PMG Wine Bistro, Boulder, Colorado

     On the endorsement of some newfound foodie friends, we visited PMG Wine Bistro in Boulder for happy hour.  PMG is an acronym for the French phrase, "pour ma gueule", meaning "for my trap", which refers to the wines a winemaker would stash to drink with family and friends.  True to its name, we witnessed several wine vendors during our visit.
     Located off Pearl Street next to Sushi Tora, the space is open and bright with lots of windows.  The dining area isn't very big, but the spacious bar and adjacent high tops provide plentiful space to meet up with friends for happy hour.  In addition to a white and red wine, a beer and a couple cocktails were offered during happy hour which runs from 4 to 6pm.  I chose the happy hour white wine and Don got the red.  Both were served in cardboard containers and reminded me of Yellowtail.  For my second glass, I decided to order a French Chinon Rose, which was very good and worth the $3 upgrade.  
     Our server was a convivial and knowledgeable young lady.  On her recommendation, we tried the Chickpea Panelles.  Ground chickpea is made into a flour which turned out golden cushions of this popular Sicilian street food.  Rather than the traditional way and eaten as a sandwich, it was served with with Greek yogurt and honey.  This kept the dish light on a hot summer day.  It's simplicity was surprisingly pure and delightful.  
     Another well executed dish was the Summer Squash Salad.  Gorgeous yellow ribbons of summer squash were simply tossed with a hint of house made anchovy dressing and garnished with toasted almonds and shaved pecorino cheese.  Every bite was a burst of freshness and a celebration of summer.
     The fried zucchini starter featured shaved zucchini deep fried with crispy batter and garnished with grated cheese, a drizzle of honey, and a pinch of chili.  Although tasty, it was not as impressive as some of the other starters.  
     A more rib sticking plate of Lydia's pate really reminds one of a French country kitchen.  Apparently, Lydia was the original maker of their pate, but she has since ventured forth and passed on her fine tuned recipe to her apprentice.  Two grilled crostini heaped with generous mounds of chicken pate is sure to satisfy the hungriest guest.  The pate was well seasoned with a creamy mouthfeel.
     The house cured ham came with thicker than expected slices of ham, white cheddar, house pickled veggies, and whole seed mustard.  I appreciate the attention to detail that the chef took to shape the mustard into quenelles (little footballs).  The carrots and cucumbers were not overly tart and provided a nice contrast to the rich meat.
     We were told to hurry back for dinner to sample the entrees including the house staple cast iron crispy chicken, which is so popular that they must always have it on the menu.  Otherwise, it is nice to see that they change the menu regularly, even on a daily basis based on local sources.
Chickpea Panelles

Summer Squash Salad

PMG Dining Area

Bar Area
Food Service Window
Fried Zucchini
Lydia's Pate
House Cured Ham