Restaurant Review: Dae Gee Korean BBQ

     On a cold winter's night, barbecue seems an elusive dream.  The thought of standing outside in the snow grilling for dinner does not sound appealing.  Luckily, Dae Gee Korean BBQ is just a short drive away where you can barbecue to your heart's content indoors.
     If you have never had Korean food, Dae Gee, which means pig, is a fun introduction.  Korean food, in addition to barbecuing, involves an abundance of pickling and fermentation, mostly of vegetables.  This preservation technique allows for access to foods year round.  Koreans also love spicy food.  At Dae Gee, you will be presented promptly after ordering with an eye opening array of small dishes (banchan) which typify Korean food culture.  These dishes include the iconic kim chee (pickled vegetables), spicy pickled cucumbers, marinated fish cakes, sesame bean sprouts, sweet potato pancakes, and a salad of cabbage, onions, red peppers, and mushrooms with a fermented bean dressing.  Of course rice is a standard accompaniment.  These bites serve a dual purpose of whetting your appetite as well as entertainment while you wait for your meats to cook.  
   For the Korean barbecue neophyte, you may, as we did, opt for the unlimited barbecue which includes 6 types of proteins: brisket, chicken thighs, beef bulgogi (thin sliced marinated ribeye), pork bulgogi, pork belly, and LA Galbee (marinated short ribs).  For $19.95 (dinner price) or the even more affordable lunch price of $14.95, you can reorder five of the above to your heart's content.  You cook the meats on a grill centered in a specially designed tabletop.   My favorite is the tender and flavorful LA Galbee, which is unfortunately the one limited item.  All other meats are tasty with the exception of the pork belly which is just too fatty for my taste.   Next time, I will opt for either the LA Galbee or the squid.    
   Aside from barbecue, Dae Gee also serves traditional Korean entrees such as the more familiar bibimbop (a rice bowl topped with assorted vegetables and/or protein and a raw egg which is cooked by the hot rice when you stir it up) as well as a variety of spicy soups.  They also have a limited variety of beers (Asian and American) and wines to polish off all this stimulating food.  
    Currently located in a strip mall in Arvada at Sheridan and 75th, and soon to open in Denver, Dae Gee is a welcome ethnic addition to these parts.  Usually one has to trek out to Aurora for Korean.  The staff is young and energetic with the most gorgeous Korean girls.  The only caveat is do not wear your good clothes unless you want to smell like Korean barbecue!  Just call me when you go so I can come with.

What I Learned From School

      I learned a ton in culinary school, and not just about cooking.  I now know what to do with a grocery cart full of food, but I am still not in love with cooking.  I much prefer eating.  Cooking is not an enjoyable leisure for a perfectionist/control freak.  But, now that I know so much, it's harder to eat out.  Most places are not up to par.
     I also learned that my passion is not so much food, but learning itself.  I could go to school indefinitely.  I once saw a bumper sticker that said, "A True Scholar Never Graduates".  I love that.  Part of my fondness for learning is being surrounded by young people.  They infuse me with youthful energy.  Maybe I just haven't grown up.
     Additionally, I find that I truly enjoy writing.  I have embraced the creative process.  Similar to painting or other art forms, I have learned that there is no limit to editing.   Having no professional or amateur writing background, I am thrilled to have a small following of readers.  I am eternally grateful for their support and encouragement.  Having a culinary education definitely makes me feel more qualified to write about food.
     Another epiphany I have had is that despite earning a quarter of my customary income, I am happier than ever. I was somewhat misanthropic in the past, but find I am less antisocial than I thought.  I realize I have a great life.  When I see my friends working double shifts every day at two restaurants, I cannot complain. 
     If you were to ask how the overall experience of culinary school was, I would say, "It wasn't fun but I enjoyed the challenge".

    

Bistro Barbes, Park Hill, Denver

     Bistro Barbes is named after a neighborhood in Paris where the chef/owner once lived.  According to the manager, the neighborhood is infused with a variety of immigrants.  The menu at Bistro Barbes is a fusion of French, Mediterranean, and North Africa.
    The restaurant is located in an unfamiliar and rather sketchy part of Park Hill.  Other than the glow from the restaurant, there was no other activity around.  Walking to the restaurant felt a bit desolate, although once inside, one is quickly ensconced in the cozy and tight space.  I counted 32 tops including four at the counter, which is where they could accommodate us on short notice.  I have been unsuccessful in securing any reservations at Bistro Barbes since it was named one of 5280's top restaurants, and now I know why.
     From our vantage point, I could see the entire staff:  three front of house and four in the back.  The executive chef was expediting (not cooking but checking orders in and out and ensuring dishes were plated to his specifications).  There was a sauté chef, and a pantry chef, and a dish washer doing most dishes by hand.  The manager/hostess/bartender/server was the girlfriend of the executive chef.  Along with two other servers, they provided attentive service.  This place was a study in efficiency.
     The menu proved equally succinct.  A single page listed the week's menu which consisted of three to four appetizers and four to five entrees.  Although limited, there was enough variety in the entrees to please most diners.  We were promptly served the amuse bouche (a small bite which is not on the menu but a gift from the chef).  It was a chickpea puree with harissa (a mediterranean hot chili pepper paste) atop a house made potato chip.   This single bite sets the tone for what's to come.  The creamy chickpeas contrasted nicely with the crunch of the potato chip.  The harissa provided just enough heat and some color.  
     We selected a couple of appealing house cocktails.  The Boulevardier was reminiscent of a Manhattan with rye, vermouth, and campari.  The Winter Margarita with house made mix and tequila had a delicious chili rim, a welcoming touch on a chill winter night.  Do not be so foolish as to forgo the baguette and butter.  The crust was the perfect golden color and broke with hearty crunch.  Kudos to the chef for serving room temperature butter as they do in France.  Butter should not be so hard that it doesn't spread, nor so cold that you can't taste it.  Unless they don't want you to.
     Our appetizer was the ubiquitous pork belly.  Everyone has some version these days.  I am happy to say Bistro Barbes' pork belly had very little fat unlike many places.  The skin could have been crispier, but the apple fennel salad added crunch and sweetness, and the acidity from the pickled purple cabbage slaw balanced the fattiness of the pork belly.
     I chose the scallops for my entree.  Four substantial sea scallops sat atop beluga lentils (looks like caviar), celery root puree, and a truffle buerre blanc sauce.  It was accompanied by a slaw of finely julienned granny smith apples.  The dish was well seasoned and the scallops had nice caramelization.  I wished for more of the sauce.  Don chose what appeared to be the very popular short rib entree.  A large, deboned portion of fork tender meat sat atop brie welted spinach and orange cumin carrots and surrounded by beautifully seared, pillowy gnocchi.  It was a true comfort dish.  We polished off the entrees with a couple glasses of wine from the, again, compact but interesting, list.  I had the grenache blanc (from Rhone, France).  It was medium bodied, crisp, and dry with hints of apple which was a nice complement to the apples in the scallop dish.  Don chose and Italian red, barbera d'alba from piedmont.  It held up well to the short rib.
     For dessert, the chef took some artistic license.  There was a panna cotta with torchon foie gras which was just a little too exotic for me.  We opted for the safer pot de creme with three layers: a chocolate ganache base, an expresso custard, and topped with the most delicate and flavorful lemon foam.  Having made many tuille (thin wafer cookie) unsuccessfully, I was impressed with the perfectly made tuille garnish.  It was equally delicious as it was visually stunning.
     I cannot express enough how impressed I am with this little restaurant.  Care is oozing out of every pore.  I encourage everyone to venture out of their gentrified suburbs and give this place a visit.  My sincerest wish is for great success without expansion as this would diminish the soul and character that is Bistro Barbes.  Bon appetite!

Amuse Bouche

Winter Margarita

Pork Belly Appetizer

The kitchen

The dining room

Scallops with beluga lentils

Short ribs with sunchoke gnocchi

Cappuccino pot de creme with tuille

Top Ten Post Externship Activities

     
      

     The last day of my externship is January 18th.  These
are the top ten items on my post externship to do list:

     1.  Paint my fingernails!
     2.  Burn my uniforms!
     3.  Hide my non-skid Danskos in the deep recess of                 my closet, where hopefully they will remain for all eternity.
     4.  Go to Reykjavik and soak in the healing waters of the Blue Lagoon.
     5.  Eat my way through NYC.  Look out Momofuku!
     6.  Eat my way through the rest of the country.
     7.  Put on stilettos.
     8.  Ride the powder in the mountains.
     9.  Finish watching "Mind of a Chef".
    10. NOT cook!

Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Chef Marcus Samuelsson of Red Rooster in Harlem, NY

Momofuku Ramen!

Husk, Charleston, NC