Saturday, July 18, 2015

Busaba Thai Restaurant, Louisville, Colorado

      Busaba, which means flower, occupies a corner of the Centennial Pavillions shopping center in Louisville.  This is probably the third reincarnation as a Thai restaurant in that space, but unlike its predecessors, it is here to stay. 
     There is no shortage of Thai purveyors around town, thus one must excel in all aspects for longevity.  I do not profess to be a Thai expert, having never traveled to the exotic land.  My experience is limited to American Thai cuisine.  However, I do know what makes a restaurant worth returning to.
     First of all, as anyone who has worked in the service industry knows, a patron's initial impression is of foremost importance.  At Busaba, you will be quickly acknowledged even  with a full room of diners.  We were surprised to see how busy the place was on a Tuesday evening.  The only seating left was a two top at the bar, which we gladly accepted as a throng of eager diners ensued.  From this vantage point, I see that the U shaped bar hogs half the dining room.  It would make more sense to break it down and free up room for more seating.  
     The bar tender/owner arrived shortly to take our order.  Though friendly, this tiny matriarch means business. She reminds me of the soup nazi on Seinfeld, albeit with a smile.  I pity the unprepared patron who cannot recite their order on cue.  She does not have the time to wait while you dally.  Fortuitously, I just read a recommendation on the place and had my list ready.
     We started with the Busaba Chicken Puffs appetizer.  A well seasoned and aromatic mixture of curry potato, carrots, peas, and corn with minced chicken is embraced by a hot off the griddle roti.  This flat bread reminds me of a Chinese pancake without the scallions.  Nicely puffed and golden, the bread had a chewy toothsomeness.  Although accompanied with a sweet and tart cucumber relish, I found myself wishing for a drizzle of sambal oelek or sriracha.  
     Next came the generously portioned papaya salad or Som Tom.  You can get this dish with or without shrimp.  Julienned papaya and carrots are bathed in a dressing flavored with lime, tamarind, and fish sauce.  This is a perfect summer time dish that pairs excellently with spicy food.  It is sweet and tart, with lots of crunch.  Crushed peanuts, found throughout Thai and southeast Asian cuisine, provide the requisite garnish.  The dish could be even better if the peanuts were roasted a tad bit longer and more finely crushed.  Mine had mostly peanut halves.
     The pumpkin curry was a beautiful shade of orange.  Chunks of pumpkin, red peppers, zucchini, and green beans soaked up the heat of the curry so that every bite warmed your mouth further.  We opted for chicken with this dish.  Other meats to select from include beef, pork, chicken, and shrimp for an additional charge.  All of which can be added to any of the curry dishes.   
     The star of the evening was the Goong Ob Woon Sen.  Having never ordered this dish, I am now besotted.  This dish stands out for its depth of flavor.  Sticky bean thread "noodles" are stir fried with whole garlic cloves, sliced ginger, generous chunks of bacon, and tail on shrimp.  All the ingredients were tossed in brown soy which imparted a savory and sweet, yin and yang.  I can taste the Chinese influence in this dish.   
     All of the dishes can be made to your specification of heat.  We chose medium for all dishes including the papaya salad.  It was a subtle and tolerable amount of heat, not enough to induce perspiration.  We are encouraged to up the ante to hot next visit.
     Busaba definitely has a team player mentality.  Staff are trained to multi task.   You will not have to wait long to be greeted or have your water refilled.  Food arrives promptly and hot.  The service is attentive without being obsequious.  This is a rare gem in suburbia.
The Bar

Dining area

Papaya Salad

Pumpkin Curry

Goong Ob Woon Sen

Busaba Chicken Puffs


     

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Sassafras American Eatery, Denver, CO

     Three year old Sassafras in north Denver has been on my hit list for some time.  The Jefferson Park eatery offers southern comfort foods in the historic Dunwoody house.  This charming victorian will delight your eyes as well as your palate.  On pleasantly sunny days, you can enjoy your meals in the spacious outdoor patio.  I even saw a couple pooches.  
     We were welcomed with an abundance of southern hospitality.  I got two complements from the staff for my retro sailor pants.  We snagged an enviable four top in the shade without a wait.  I imagine the place would be swamped on weekends.  
     Tables are covered with plastic lacy table cloths and country inspired cloth napkins.  Each table comes with its own set of kitschy but adorable salt and pepper shakers.  Housemade condiments such as berry jam and pepper jelly are also staples on the tables.  Vibrant flower pots and garden gnomes can be found throughout the patio.
     The coffee was strong and hot and frequently refilled, albeit a bit steep at $3.50.  They also offer a variety of juices, smoothies, and tempting milkshakes.  The Capitol Hill location (on Colfax) has a liquor license and is able to offer some alcoholic beverages in addition.
     I was enticed by several items on the menu.  After consulting with our enthusiastic and opinionated server, I decided to get the very popular Chicken Fried Eggs and Smoked Buffalo Hash.  I soon saw why it was so popular.
This visually stunning dish arrived with two coddled then battered and deep fried eggs perched atop a carefully plated mound of hash and a cornbread cutout.  When you pierce the egg, the golden yolk runneth over into the orange chili Hollandaise to create a molten piece of abstract art. The buffalo hash was tender, finely chopped, and distinctly smoky, but I found it under seasoned on its own.  A dip into the Fresno chili Hollandaise resolved this dilemma nicely.  A forkful of the egg, hash, cornbread, and sauce proved divine, if you can fit it all into your mouth.
     Don's Lost Bread (Pain Perdu or French Toast) was equally layered with nuanced flavor.  Three generous slices of French bread dipped in egg batter and pan fried came dusted with powdered sugar.  It was garnished with enormous, succulent blackberries as well as spiced pecan halves and a dollop of cinnamon butter.  The Satsuma syrup provided a subtle orange flavor that was not overly sweet.  
     We will definitely be returning to sample some beignets and the many other appealing items. 
House made berry jam and jalepeno jelly

Bottomless coffee


Patio dining


Salt and Pepper shakers

Front entrance



Whimsical garden decor

Rear entrance




Lost Bread

Chicken Fried Eggs with Smoked Buffalo Hash