Zolo, Boulder, CO

     After a month of rain, we were like prisoners in solitary confinement desperate for sunshine.  When the sun finally shown, we did not hesitate to soak it up on Memorial Day.  On a whim, we decided to brunch at Zolo's as we're walking to the Boulder Creek Festival.  We were confident Zolo's offerings would be more desirable than any fair food.  
     Zolo is part of the Big Red F Group which includes Jax Fish House, West End Tavern, Lola, Centro, and The Post in Louisville.  In fact, Zolo started it all 21 years ago and is still standing strong.  Anchoring a corner, it shares the Village Boulder Shopping Center with Lark Burger and Pizzeria da Lupo.  The festive space is graced with gorgeous artwork inside and out from local artist and patron, Kevon Krasnoff, who specializes in painting on wood boards.  Be sure to admire the sculptures at the entry.
     We were seated promptly without reservations which would be unusual on any weekend but more so on the day of the Bolder Boulder.  Contrary to what you might think, Zolo was bustling.  The place was filled with post run imbibers including a rowdy group of 50 downing Tequila shots.  The handsome waitstaff donned black shirts of their choosing and dark denim jeans.  
     Our server greeted us equally swiftly.  The offering of $3 Mimosas and Bloody Mary's (individually shaken with your specification of heat) was too good to pass up.  Much more difficult was choosing an entree.  Several items tempted me such as the Duck Confit Hash and Blue Corn Pancakes.  Alas, the culinarian in me settled on the Southwestern Benedict.  Hollandaise can be tricky to make and maintain and not easily made at home.  Don was almost swayed by the enticing savory dishes but succumbed to the Stuffed French Toast.
     We had to wait quite a while for our drinks.  Fortuitously, our seats allowed spectacular views of the Flatirons to entertain us.  If it is available, be sure to ask for the two top by the window.  My Mimosa was sweet and bubbly and served in a champagne flute with an orange wedge.  Don's Bloody Mary was by far the winner with sufficient kick for the most discerning imbiber and proper garnishes of pepperoncini, olive, and lime.
     My Southwest Benedict would have been perfect had the eggs been properly prepared and the plate properly wiped.  Unfortunately, instead of poached eggs, they were soft boiled.  No liquid gold gushed out when I pierced the egg as anticipated.  This egg would not have passed the practical at Escoffier.  The patty of Mexican chorizo sausage was mildly piquant thanks to the addition of pablano pepper.  Silky and rich, the chile hollandaise did not over power.  Seared kale and swiss chard provided a touch of bitterness to compliment the rich dish.  Buttery, house made English muffin was more akin to a biscuit.  Some of the edges still retained a  crisp crust.  The dish was accompanied by well cooked and seasoned crispy country potatoes.
     Don's Stuffed French Toast appeared minimalist until you tasted it.  Stuffed with caramelized bananas, drizzled with pecan maple syrup, and dusted with ancho chile sugar, this dish will conquer the most ardent sweet tooth.  As if that wasn't enough, the whole thing is dipped in a nutty batter and deep fried.  This is a dish made for black coffee.  
     If you have never been to Zolo, or if it has been a while since you visited, I would recommend you give them a try at brunch.  The selections are varied, the prices are good, the staff friendly and efficient, and the artwork interesting.

Zolo Entrance

Sculture by Kevon Krasnoff

Indoor Dining Space

View of Bar and Kitchen

View from the window of the two top

$3 Bloody and Mimosa

Southwest Benedict

Overcooked Egg

Stuffed French Toast

Nocturne Jazz Club, Denver

     I am jazzed about Denver's new night club.  Nocturne Jazz and Supper Club opened two months ago in the burgeoning River North (RiNo) district.  Unlike El Chapultepac with its dive-bar environs, Nocturne is a sleek and stylish hide-away fit for the Rat Pack.  Surreptitiously located on a side street off Larimer, you might miss it if you blink.  Parking is scarce around here, but they are working on valet service.  Nocturne is open nightly from Monday to Saturday.  Local artists are featured nightly as well as occasional national acts such as Eddie Gomez.   Artist fees are $5 on weekdays and $10 on weekends and are added to your tab.  Reservations are recommended especially for the more coveted national acts, which of course cost more.
     Why am I reviewing a jazz club, you say?  Not only does Nocturne purvey a much needed genre of music, the chef has created a rotating 5 course tasting menu inspired by classic jazz albums from artists such as John Coltrane.  Also intriguing is the creative cocktail menu.  When we visited recently on a Thursday night to hear the excellent Annie Booth Trio, we had already supped but was able to imbibe on a couple cocktails and small plates.
     The space is in a former warehouse, so it's all exposed brick and duct work with high ceilings.  A tasteful art deco mirror graces the bar.  The main room surrounds the stage with multiple four tops as well as a wrap around lounge and high tops.  A spiral staircase leads to a smaller seating area upstairs. The staff is well trained and professional.  They are attentive but not hovering.  
     The cocktail list comprises of classic oldies as well as new fangled creations.  As fans of the retro, we stuck to a Boulevardier and an Old Fashioned, both well crafted.  We ordered an appetizer of Squid and Octopus.  It was flavorful but somewhat lean on the cephalopods.  It would be more appropriately named beans three ways with some squid and octopus.  The dish had plentiful creamy cannelloni beans slow braised with hunks of smoky lardons (pork fat).  Additionally, endamame and garbonzo beans also made an appearance.  I enjoyed the few bright asparagus tips cooked to retain their snap.  A generous slice of Grateful Bread focaccia served to sop up the jus.  This comfort dish was plenty filling even as a starter.
     The Brown Butter Almond Cake sounded too good to pass up.  We were not disappointed.  Individual sized cake molds allow a wonderfully moist, buttery cake with golden brown and crisp edges.  An ala mode scoop of raspberry basil ice cream enhanced the nuttiness of the cake.  A cloud like pistachio powder was a culinary wonder.  Crushed pistachio drizzle added crunch and visual interest.  The final garnish was three ripe and juicy blackberries.  A half order of French press coffee ensured we were alert for our ride home.
     All the other plates we glimpsed looked equally appetizing.  We'll definitely reserve our appetites for our next visit.  If you go, be prepared for a lovely night of entertainment.  This is no place for a slouch, time to polish your penny loafers and  break out that wiggle dress.

Annie Booth Trio

Upper level seating

Bar 

Staircase to upper level

Old Fashioned

Squid and Octopus

Early Bird Restaurant, Westminster, CO

      I was recently asked to review breakfast places, so here it is.  Early Bird Restaurant, located in the Bradburn Village in Westminster, has been open since summer of 2012.  We decided to give it a try given the rave review in the May issue of 5280.  
     The decor pays homage to the resplendent rooster.  You are greeted with striking red umbrellas contrasted with a black rooster icon.  Inside, you will find a cozy and bustling dining space exposed to a tight, open kitchen.  The staff is friendly, prompt, knowledgeable, and most importantly, proud.  I can tell that this is a place certain to be packed to the gills on weekends.  
     The menu offers breakfast, lunch, and brunch items all day.  Hours are daily from 7-2:30.  Traditional offerings such as omelets and French Toast are tweaked with house flair.  For instance, house braised barbecue pork graces one of the eggs benedict.  The French Toast is a creme brûlée version.  Excellent Novo coffee (roasted right here in Denver) is served in heavy, homey, sepia coffee mugs.
     Upon recommendation from our enthusiastic server, we ordered the breakfast tacos and the French toast.  The stunning taco plate came with three pliable white corn tortillas piled high with fluffy scrambled eggs, guacamole, pico de gallo, a drizzle of sour creme, and a lightly blistered shishito pepper.  For a dollar more, you can get them topped with sweet and juicy barbecue pork that's slow braised in house.  You will get messy with this dish, but it's totally worth it.  Accompanying country potatoes were well cooked but under seasoned.  This is  remedied with house made ketchup and hot sauce.  My only critique is the "American" size of the portions.  One taco would have been plenty, although you can take the rest home in 100% recycled containers.
     The creme brûlée French toast came with four slices of bread and a side of meat such as crispy bacon.  You choose from four topping combinations including the traditional maple syrup and butter, fruit and whipped cream, bananas and peanut butter, and an unusual pairing of chocolate and bacon.  Don stuck to the traditional butter and maple syrup.  I don't typically have the stomach for sweet breakfast dishes.  One bite of this custardy bread with maple syrup and butter was enough to satisfy.  Hard to imagine eating all four slices.
     The food here reflects the passion of the chef owners, a husband and wife team.  Items such as granola and sauces are made in house and popular enough to be packaged for sale.  Attention to details, such as rooster art, black and white photos, and plush disposable hand towels in the bathroom, sets Early Bird apart from other breakfast eateries.  The high density locale guarantees a constant and loyal clientele.  The welcoming staff makes you feel like part of the neighborhood.  We'll definitely hurry back to try more items such as the chicken stuffed waffles.  

Breakfast tacos

Creme Brûlée French Toast