Friday, December 18, 2015

Grill and Vine, Westin DIA (Denver International Airport)

     Recently, while traveling out of state, we decided to wander over to the new Westin at the airport.  Having been open just a mere week, the hotel was already hopping with clientele.  It is indeed sleek, modern, and stark.  The Westin currently has one sit down restaurant open called Grill and Vine.  It is warmly appointed, a happy contrast to the rest of the hotel and convention center.  It is a moderately upscale grill with something for everyone from grandpa to the toddler.  
     I immediately noticed the whimsical window decals of all the Denver neighborhoods.  On the ceiling is a simplified map of these neighborhoods.  Both touches are a thoughtful homage to our beloved city.  Warm tones and lighting throughout the restaurant provide incentive to not dine and dash.  The waitstaff were professionally attired and diligent without being obsequious.  
    True to its moniker, the wine list is appropriately edited with whites and reds mostly from California, both by the glass and bottle.  We opted for the cocktails which were too enticing to pass up.  My Smoke and Spice cocktail was a tequila and hot (as in piquant) cider concoction.  Jalepeno slices provided an additional layer of heat.  Don's Copper Mine Shaft was made with our favorite Colorado whiskey, Stranahan's.  A cousin to the Old Fashioned, this amber elixir, spiked with walnut bitters is a warm welcome on a chill winter's eve.
     The well edited one page menu had several tempting items.  However, we were seduced by the pappardelle with lamb ragu.  A generous portion of slow simmered meat sauce sat atop a tangle of perfectly al dente wide fresh pasta.  Each delectable bite was edible comfort.  The scant shaved parmesan cheese was a tease.  More would have been welcome.   A nice glass of Malbec complimented this hearty winter dish.
     After perusing the tempting side dishes, I decided to order three of them as my meal.  Each came in it's own adorable crockette.  The roasted vegetables had chunks of sweet golden beets and festive red and green peppers.  It was good, but more time in the oven would have added more caramelization.  Ditto with the brussels sprouts, however, the accompanying bacon lardons were crisp and sweet.  My favorite by far was the fingerling potatoes with caramelized onions.  Cooked to golden, the potatoes were cut length wise and roasted skin on.  The exterior remained crispy while the interior stayed hot and creamy.  The sweetness of the caramelized onions complimented the otherwise plain potatoes.
     On the enthusiastic endorsement of our server, we chose a Chili Spiced Chocolate Cremeux (pudding) for dessert.  After waiting for what seemed an unusually long intermission, we were informed that all the desserts were held up in catering at the convention center.  This is an egregious miscommunication between the kitchen and front of house that left a bitter impression at the end of an otherwise lovely meal.  We almost called it off, but our server apologized profusely and comped the dessert. Fortunately, it was worth the wait.  The contrast of the rich chocolate pudding laced with spicy ancho chili was genius.  A honey cream element took some heat off if you wished.  Crispy cookie crumbles was necessary to add crunch to the creamy dessert.  Stewed cherries added fruity tartness to the rich chocolate.  It was a satisfying dessert and plentiful to share.  
     I am pleased to have another fine dining option whenever I am stranded at the airport, especially after they smooth out some service kinks. 
Copper Mine Shaft and Smoke and Spice

Complimentary Olive Walnut bread

Roasted Vegetables

Fingerling potatoes

Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Pappardelle with Lamb Ragu

Chili Chocolate Cremeux