Ocean Prime, Denver

     As a rule, I avoid chain restaurants as the food tends to be pedestrian.  I will, however; make an exception for Ocean Prime.  This national chain can be found  in such cities as New York, Boston, Indianapolis, and Detroit.  We are fortunate to have one in Denver on Larimer Street.  Ocean Prime is a classic steak house in the tradition of Morton's, Brook's, and Del Frisco.  Additionally, they offer excellent seafood.
     We celebrated Don's birthday two years ago at Ocean Prime, and I am still paying for it.  I say that in jest, but the prices are rather ridiculous.  When a generous friend gifted us with a dinner at Ocean Prime, I did not hesitate to reserve a table for Don's birthday this year.  Having grown up in the midwest, steak and potatoes are to him, what rice and soy sauce are to me.  This place is right up his alley.
     Denver's Ocean Prime is elegant and posh from the  hostess stand to the upstairs dining room.  We were seated on both occasions in the main dining room, but I'll be sure to request a table by the window next time.  It's just so pretty with Larimer all lit up at night.  Servers don crisp white shirts, spotless aprons, and pressed dark trousers.  They execute service seamlessly like ninjas.  Each time I visited the powder room, the staff would gentlemanly step aside with a gracious, "after you" as if I were the queen.
     Cocktails at Ocean Prime are actually reasonably priced, most can be had for $12.  Concoctions made from a spectrum of liquors are sure to please just about anyone.  Wines, both by the glass and bottle, are listed and presented on a slick I Pad.  Don ordered a classic gin martini with Bombay Sapphire and blue cheese olives.   I tasted one and the rich, creamy blue cheese complemented perfectly with the briny olive.  My Whiskey Clover was made with Gentleman Jack Whiskey, honey water, and fresh squeezed orange and lemon juices, garnished with a slip of   tangerine peel.  It was smooth, warm, and not overly sweet.  Both cocktails were shaken table side and poured into ice cold martini glasses.
     The bread loaf arrived sliced, hot, and beautifully glazed.  The distinct buttery aroma is sure to conquer the most ascetic non-bread eater.  The golden, crisp crust contrasted nicely with the soft, cloud-like interior.  With a smear of butter, it was one of the best breads I've tasted.  
     Our salads took a while but were worth the wait.  My iceberg lettuce wedge was the size of Mt. Elbert.  A bite of the lettuce with the thick, rich cabernet buttermilk dressing, smoked bacon, and blue cheese was weepingly good.  The cherry tomato halves provided contrasting color but were otherwise unnecessary.  Don's Ocean Prime house salad paled in appearance to my wedge beauty, although all elements were balanced and cohesive including: romaine, apples, goat cheese, walnuts, and a shallot mustard vinegrette.
     I could not resist the call of the twin lobster tails, and was not disappointed.  Succulent lobster tails, expertly cooked and presented with shells, were as delicious as they were visually stunning.  Shaved stalks of steamed, then lightly sautéed asparagus still retained the bright green color and crisp texture.  A glass of non-oaky chardonnay is perfect with the lobster.  I recommend the Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse.  It is attention to details such as serving clarified butter and shaving the asparagus that sets Ocean Prime apart.  I can't help thinking there's probably some poor culinary school intern peeling 100 lbs of asparagus.
     Don's massive ribeye was seared with a black peppercorn crust and accessorized with an au poivre sauce (peppercorn sauce).  The rich sauce tasted of veal demi glace infused with peppercorn.  The steak, cooked medium rare, melted in your mouth with minimal mastication.  The steaks here are meant to be savored, each bite paired with a sip of full bodied red such as a Napa Valley Cabernet or a left bank Bordeaux.  This is a carnivore's dream and a vegetarian's nightmare.  We could only eat half of this whole pounder of a steak.   The leftovers will make an excellent steak salad.
     Our only accompaniment to our entrees, which are all ala carte, was sautéed button mushrooms.  A generous boat full of buttery 'shrooms arrived hot, tender, well seasoned, and most importantly, not too heavy.  All the  starchy sides, however tempting, would be too weighty.
     Our server kindly comped our dessert since we were celebrating Don's birthday.  Last year, we ordered the amazing ten layer Mile High carrot cake, but decided to try the Baked Alaska.   Where else would we ever get this dessert?  After observing Jaque Pepin making this time consuming creation, I will not likely be making this at home.   
     A wedge of Alaska arrived with beautifully inscribed "Happy Birthday" in chocolate sauce.  A neapolitan ice cream core is wrapped with pound cake, then a thick layer of caramelized meringue.  Dark chocolate and raspberry sauces completed the ice cream cake as well as fresh berries and mint.  French press coffee was the only accompaniment needed.
   Please do not let the fact that Ocean Prime is a chain  keep you from visiting.  Having developed the critical senses of a culinarian, this meal was even better than the last we had here.

Sourdough bread loaf

Gin Martini & Whiskey Clover

Iceberg Lettuce Wedge

Ocean Prime House Salad

Twin Lobster Tails

16 oz Ribeye Au Poivre

Sauteed Button Mushrooms

French Press Coffee

Main dining room

One of many private dining rooms

Baked Alaska

     
      

Argyll Whiskey Beer, Denver

     One of the finest food writers in Denver has a weekly column in the Denver Post.  He happens to be a chef, currently at the very good Spuntino in Highland and the recently reincarnated Argyll Whiskey Beer.  I have been a fan of chef John Broening since he helmed Duo, Olivea, and Le Grande Bistro and Oyster Bar.  His writing is simple but erudite, appealing to foodies and neophytes alike.  I have experimented with his recipes many times and am grateful for his generosity.  
     Argyll Whiskey Beer has been on my hit list since it reopened in the space previously occupied by Las Margaritas in Uptown, 17th and Downing to be precise.
The philosophy at Argyll is "Eat Well, Drink Slowly, and Speak Warmly".  The avuncular space is reminiscent of an old Victorian Pub.  There is plenty of room, and we were promptly seated without a reservation.  The friendly staff donned contemporary plaid shirts and denim; some accessorized with pageboy hats.
     After watching Mind of a Chef's segment on English pub food, I was hankering for some proper British grub.  Having been alcohol free for 40 days, I was dreaming of sweet, amber hued whiskey.  Argyll's whiskey and Scotch list is mind blowingly extensive and worldly.  Draft beers are plentiful, I counted 19.  There is a scattering of white and red wines for non-beer and whiskey imbibers.                 
     I decided to try a couple of whiskey cocktails that sounded interesting.  The Thoroughbred, made with Buffalo Trace Bourbon intrigued me with the addition of smoked black tea and grapefruit bitters.  A hefty sliver of lemon peel imparted refreshing citrus with each sip.  This drink is made to be savored but it was so delicious, I soon ordered another cocktail.  The Vieux Carre (old square) made with Rittenhouse rye and cognac was equally aromatic and drinkable.  Don had a Manhattan made with Elijah Criag Barrel Proof Kentucky Bourbon to start and ended with a very smooth Bull and Bush Man Beer English IPA that was surprisingly drinkable with minimal hoppiness.  One caveat, their drinks are stiff!
     Accompanying our stellar drinks were excellent house made chips.  Complimentary thick cut, golden brown, and greaseless potato chips arrived with malt gastrique (a reduction of malt vinegar and molasses) for dipping.  The sweet and tart gastrique paired splendidly with the salty crunchy chips.  This perfect bar snack ensures you are thirsty for more drinks.  
     Enticed by our house chips, we eagerly awaited our appetizer, the Scotch Egg.  If you have never had one before, it is a soft boiled egg wrapped in sausage and deep fried.  Here it is served with an apple fennel salad and mustard aioli.  The cool, sweet slaw balanced the rich, runny egg and sausage.  The mustard added a nice tang.  
     Don quickly gravitated toward the Lamb burger. 
Cooked to order, it was savory, juicy, and not overly gamey.  Non-lamb fans would even embrace this burger.  The creamy tzatziki-like sauce was the yin to the yang of the meat.  Another condiment, tomato jam, provided contrasting color, sweetness, and acidity.  Chopped romaine lettuce added greenery and  crunch.  The buttery buns were soft, soaking up the lamb juice.  My only beef with the dish is the side of fries.  They were well cooked and seasoned but instead of shoestrings, I wish they were steak cut, like the Brits'.
     I was torn between the fish and chips, voted best by 5280, and A Spot of Tea.  I decided with the Spot of Tea. It was beautifully presented.  A bowl of ramen noodles, braised and shredded duck, and pickled veggies was topped off table side with a spot of ramen broth in its own tea pot.  Great idea!  This ensures the noodles don't get over cooked.  The pork and chicken broth was somewhat lacking in depth of flavor.  Perhaps I was overwhelmed by the dominant notes of the pickled daikon radish and carrots.  A poached egg, napa cabbage, and cilantro finished the dish.  I may have to go to Japan for that ramen I am seeking.
     Several desserts tempted us.  I had my heart set on the whiskey cake after reading Chef John's column, but our server (from Atlanta) recommended the Banoffee.  We decided to get both.  It has been 40 days since Don  had dessert.  We fell off the wagon, hard.  
     The whiskey cake arrived warm with an inviting whiff of buttery whiskiness.   The quenelled (football shaped) creme fraiche and orange marmalade was served on the side.  A forkful of all three proved to be an excellent combination and not too sweet.  The only critique for this dessert was that the cake started to get rubbery, likely from being warmed in the microwave.  
     The Banoffee tart is a banana toffee pudding served in a pate sucre shell.  An abundance of whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles garnished the already sweet dessert.  A side of golden raisins in caramel sauce seemed superfluous.  This is an instance of too much of a good thing.  The dessert was so sweet, I could feel my pancreas go into overdrive.  Of course a boy from Georgia would like this dessert.
     I am already looking forward to my next visit at Argyll Whiskey Beer where I'll be sure to get the fish and chips and house made charcuterie!

A Manhattan, Thoroughbred, and house chips

Scotch Egg

Spot of Tea

Spot of Tea Ramen

Lamb Burger and Fries

Vieux Carre

Banoffee

Whiskey Cake

Panzano, Denver. Best Happy Hour!

     Catching a show recently at Lannie's Clock Tower Cabaret in downtown Denver, I pondered where we should dine.  It would have to be a place within walking distance, and where we could get in and out quickly.  Panzano's, located inside the whimsical hotel Monaco, was perfect.   They have one of the best Happy Hours offered from 3-6 in the bar.
     A perfume of truffles entices you immediately.  Well appointed and spacious with large windows, the bar is customized for people watching, both on the street and inside.  The happy hour menu is extensive.  Not just the usual undesirable bar snacks.  I appreciate the simple pricing structure: an extensive selection of specialty cocktails for $6, wines by the glass for $5, and tap beers for $4.  The food selection, mainly Italian, allows for tastes of the dinner menu with perfect portions for the price.  Our bill came to under $40 for 5 plates and a cocktail for two people with above average appetites. 
     All of the offerings sound temptingly delicious, so we will have to return to try the rest.  For this trip, we sampled an appetizer, a pasta, two "entrees", and a vegetable.  Even during happy hour, you can get a "square" meal.  
     The plates came out at once since it was happy hour and we were sharing.  The appetizer is a single crepe filled with Hazel Dell oyster mushrooms.  The crepe had good texture although it was a tad cool, and the mushrooms were rather large and chewy.  The truffled fonduta (Italian for fondue) sauce added richness and earthiness.  Brunoise chives dressed up an other wise bland looking dish.  
     The Pastiche came in an adorable red crocklett.  Two plump ricotta filled tortellinis sat atop a tomato meat sauce with miniature spicy pork meat balls.  The tortellinis looked and tasted home made.  The meat balls were delicious with a hint of heat.  Two house made oyster crackers served the purpose of sauce mopper.  A touch of cinnamon and thyme further warms  the comforting dish.  
     Of the two "entree" selections we ordered, the veal was the more impressive in both presentation and taste.  A hearty scallopini of veal sat atop a mound of mashed potatoes with sautéed spinach.  I can't imagine eating a regular entree if the happy hour is a third of the portion!  The veal was tender and juicy.  The sundried tomatoes and capers sauce complemented the meat with acidity and sweetness.
     The Happy Hour Capesante (Italain for scallop) is a single seared scallop with roasted miniature root vegetables and a cauliflower puree.  Though tasty, I found the presentation a bit messy.  The scallop had a nice sear and was perfectly cooked but it was hidden under all the garnish.  Even though it was a large sea scallop, one is just not enough.  
     We ordered the brussel sprouts last minute and I am glad.  They are so common these days, they're almost trite, but I just cannot get enough of this cruciferous darling.  Here at Panzano, chef Elise Wiggins has elevated the sprouts to a higher level.  Crispy flash fried sprout halves are dressed with a sweet and tangy apple cider reduction and garnished with toasted pistachios and julienned green apples.  Yes, please! 
     Overall, I am so impressed with the attention to detail for the Happy Hour offerings that I want to return for the dinner service.  We left feeling full but not stuffed and was able to enjoy the show at Lannie's. 

Capesante (can you find the scallop?)

Mushroom Crepe

Veal

Pastiche

Brussels Sprouts