Friday, December 18, 2015

Grill and Vine, Westin DIA (Denver International Airport)

     Recently, while traveling out of state, we decided to wander over to the new Westin at the airport.  Having been open just a mere week, the hotel was already hopping with clientele.  It is indeed sleek, modern, and stark.  The Westin currently has one sit down restaurant open called Grill and Vine.  It is warmly appointed, a happy contrast to the rest of the hotel and convention center.  It is a moderately upscale grill with something for everyone from grandpa to the toddler.  
     I immediately noticed the whimsical window decals of all the Denver neighborhoods.  On the ceiling is a simplified map of these neighborhoods.  Both touches are a thoughtful homage to our beloved city.  Warm tones and lighting throughout the restaurant provide incentive to not dine and dash.  The waitstaff were professionally attired and diligent without being obsequious.  
    True to its moniker, the wine list is appropriately edited with whites and reds mostly from California, both by the glass and bottle.  We opted for the cocktails which were too enticing to pass up.  My Smoke and Spice cocktail was a tequila and hot (as in piquant) cider concoction.  Jalepeno slices provided an additional layer of heat.  Don's Copper Mine Shaft was made with our favorite Colorado whiskey, Stranahan's.  A cousin to the Old Fashioned, this amber elixir, spiked with walnut bitters is a warm welcome on a chill winter's eve.
     The well edited one page menu had several tempting items.  However, we were seduced by the pappardelle with lamb ragu.  A generous portion of slow simmered meat sauce sat atop a tangle of perfectly al dente wide fresh pasta.  Each delectable bite was edible comfort.  The scant shaved parmesan cheese was a tease.  More would have been welcome.   A nice glass of Malbec complimented this hearty winter dish.
     After perusing the tempting side dishes, I decided to order three of them as my meal.  Each came in it's own adorable crockette.  The roasted vegetables had chunks of sweet golden beets and festive red and green peppers.  It was good, but more time in the oven would have added more caramelization.  Ditto with the brussels sprouts, however, the accompanying bacon lardons were crisp and sweet.  My favorite by far was the fingerling potatoes with caramelized onions.  Cooked to golden, the potatoes were cut length wise and roasted skin on.  The exterior remained crispy while the interior stayed hot and creamy.  The sweetness of the caramelized onions complimented the otherwise plain potatoes.
     On the enthusiastic endorsement of our server, we chose a Chili Spiced Chocolate Cremeux (pudding) for dessert.  After waiting for what seemed an unusually long intermission, we were informed that all the desserts were held up in catering at the convention center.  This is an egregious miscommunication between the kitchen and front of house that left a bitter impression at the end of an otherwise lovely meal.  We almost called it off, but our server apologized profusely and comped the dessert. Fortunately, it was worth the wait.  The contrast of the rich chocolate pudding laced with spicy ancho chili was genius.  A honey cream element took some heat off if you wished.  Crispy cookie crumbles was necessary to add crunch to the creamy dessert.  Stewed cherries added fruity tartness to the rich chocolate.  It was a satisfying dessert and plentiful to share.  
     I am pleased to have another fine dining option whenever I am stranded at the airport, especially after they smooth out some service kinks. 
Copper Mine Shaft and Smoke and Spice

Complimentary Olive Walnut bread

Roasted Vegetables

Fingerling potatoes

Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

Pappardelle with Lamb Ragu

Chili Chocolate Cremeux

Thursday, November 26, 2015

The Hideaway Steakhouse, Westminster, CO

     What could be a more fitting celebration of my husband's retirement than an old school steak dinner for an "old guy", (his words)?  I could think of no rival.  So, when he suggested The Hideaway Steakhouse in Westminster, I demurred even though I am skeptical of its suburban location.  There are a plethora of excellent steak joints in Denver, but Westminster?  I vowed to keep an open mind.
     Contrary to its moniker, the Hideway sits on a visible suburban thoroughfare.  The newish building and decor are pleasant enough albeit without character like so much of suburbia.   Don was expecting something more like historic Bastien's on Colfax but it was more reminiscent of an upscale Applebees.  
     The hostess led us to a spacious booth and inquired about our celebration to which I proudly announced my husband's much deserved retirement.  To my chagrin, this did not procure any special treatment or complimentary dessert, although the adjacent table received a creme brûlée with a candle for their birthday celebration.  I guess only birthdays are recognized here.
     I was pleased to see elegant stemware and solid cutlery with some heft, especially after perusing the eyebrow raising menu prices.  Sure, I have paid as much elsewhere, but it was commensurate with the locale.  Guess folks are more affluent in Westminster than I thought.  
     The servers work as a team, so one person may take your appetizer order while another takes the order for the rest of the meal.  I did not realize this and thought I was "cheating" on the first server.  The wine menu is extensive enough although most were California wines.  I had a glass of cabernet that was quite good for the value.  Big, bold, and fruity, it would complement any red meat.  Don had been looking forward to his gin martini with three olives ala Don Draper of Mad Men, and was not disappointed.  
     An interesting observation regarding the staff is their loyalty to the food, no matter the quality.  One waxed poetic about the butter, which was whipped and sprinkled with pink Hawaiian salt.  It was fine, but nothing that you would crave as he so effused.  The salt was so scant, you couldn't even taste it.  One would expect outstanding bread to complement such a revered accompaniment, but the bread was so dry and crumbly, it didn't even soak up the butter.  We rarely leave good bread, but this was borderline inedible.  When someone finally cleaned the trail of crumbs from said bread, I apologized for the mess but the bread was so crumbly.  To my astonishment, she replied, "but it's so good"!
     We each ordered a salad.  My caesar were two artfully stacked hearts of Romaine, nicely trimmed.  The dressing was served on the side and appropriately salty.   Don's Bibb wedge was also nicely presented and happily with more blue cheese than my stingy sprinkle of parmesan.  The dressing was an interesting balsamic blue cheese.  It was tangy but I found it wanting for salt.
     I considered ordering a non-steak entree, however, did not feel shrimp papardelle warranted $40, even for jumbo shrimp.  Pasta costs dollars to make.  So, I opted for the 10 oz prime New York strip.  The premium USDA grading for steak is "prime" which means the most marbling and thus flavor.  Always opt towards more rare, otherwise, save your money.  It doesn't pay to spend so much if you are going to cook it to death.  Don smartly chose the most costly buffalo ribeye at $46, but was rewarded with a most flavorful, tender, and juicy meat that he won't soon forget.  Thankfully, sauces are not an additional charge unless you want more than one.  The port wine brandy peppercorn was gorgeously glossy with a bite from the green peppercorns.  It paired perfectly with both meat and our wine.  The lemony bernaise was less successful but still enjoyable.
     The highlight of our meal has to be the side of truffle fries.  I don't usually order fried foods, but even though the other sides all sounded decent, why should I order something I can make at home?  An inviting crockpot full of meticulously cubed yukon gold potatoes were crisp on the outside and steamy hot on the inside.  Add heady truffle oil and flakes of salty parmesan, this is one sexy side that may just outshine the steak.  
     Service was spotty here.  It was attentive and prompt initially before the crowd.  But once the restaurant was full, you were left on your own.  We waited several minutes for our to go box and finally had to flag someone down.  We were too dejected to order dessert.  I really wanted to like this place, but unfortunately I will not soon return, if ever.
The Hideaway Steakhouse Dining Room

Martini

Table decor

Caesar Salad

Bibb Wedge

Bread and Butter

Truffle Fries

New York Strip

Buffalo Ribeye


Friday, November 13, 2015

A Few of My Favorite Things

     I admit I'm rather high maintenance when it comes to eating.  I love a wide variety of food, and I can't eat the same thing day after day.  I don't like leftovers because I've just had it.  So, it's quite an endorsement if I like something so much that I eat it regularly.  There are so many great restaurants out there but not every dish is a winner.  When I find one though, I find myself thinking about when I can have it again.  Here are some of my favorite dishes which were a life saver the year we gave up meat. . .
    In Broomfield, there are so many Pho places, but I bet you have a favorite.  Mine is Pho Duy, located conveniently next to Pacific Ocean Asian market.  Their pho is quite good but ever since I discovered it, I always get the Bun Bo Hue Chay, a spicy vegetarian noodle soup.  When the weather cools, there is nothing more comforting than this pipping hot bowl filled with fat vermicelli noodles in a spicy, savory broth with tofu and veggies.  I can smell it now.  Bright green broccoli florets, crispy carrots, and straw mushrooms float alongside tofu multiple ways.  There is fried tofu, dried bean curd, crispy tofu skin, and a tofu veggie fritter.  Trust me, this is not the flavorless white block in a plastic container.  Tofu can be exciting and exotic.  All this soy protein is garnished with fresh scallions as well as crispy fried shallots, adding another dimension of flavor.  You will never be so fulfilled without eating a bite of meat.
    Another constant craving of mine happens to be a noodle soup from Ting's Chinese Restaurant in Lafayette.  I confess, I'm partial to noodles.  This dish is listed on the lunch menu, but I was told you can order it for dinner, too.  For the adventurer who can't be satisfied with the pedestrian kung pao dishes, you will be enamored with this gargantuan bowl of smoky goodness.  I always get the seafood combination which comes with sea scallops and shrimp.  They also have beef, chicken, pork, or a combination.  The broth is rich and velvety with charred Chinese cabbage, scallops, and shrimp.  The result is a irreproducible umami symphony for your palate.  They are as generous with the succulent seafood as the noodles.  I often dream of apprenticing with the chef just to learn this dish.  But for $7.50, I will happily keep eating! 
    Also in Lafayette is a family owned gem called Morning Glory.  I am not a fan of breakfast foods but my husband loves it.  I find the sweet dishes overwhelming for the first meal of the day, and the other choices a detriment to one's health.  There is one dish at Morning Glory that I love that is actually healthy and delicious.  It also happens to be gluten free and vegetarian.  The Fried Rice Bowl is something that I would make for myself.  This stunning dish has everything I love and is well balanced with healthful grains, protein, vegetables, and fat.  Tender spinach leaves are lightly sautéed along with onions and earthy shitake mushrooms.  Diced tomatoes and red peppers provide visual contrast and sweetness.  All of which is stir fried with glistening grains of black or Forbidden rice and lightly embraced with melted white cheddar.  To top it off, you get two eggs cooked to your liking.  I usually get scrambled, but sunny side up would be brilliant.  I will be very upset if they ever take away this wonderful dish.
    So, there you have it, my favorite things to eat that I will never tire of.  Please save some for me!
     
Pho Duy's Bon Bo Hue Chay

Ting's Seafood Noodle Soup

Morning Glory's Fried Rice Bowl

Friday, November 6, 2015

Wild Standard, Boulder, CO

    In a landlocked state such as Colorado, I welcome good seafood when I can get it.  Wild Standard, a sustainable seafood restaurant, recently opened on Pearl Street in Boulder.  It currently has dinner service only, although it will soon be adding lunch and brunch.  Usually, I prefer to let neophyte restaurants work out the kinks for a few months, but I was hankering for some good seafood after getting spoiled in Iceland, so I made reservations soon after its opening.
    The place was hopping on a Friday night.  The gorgeous space is decked out with abundant sconces and ornate chandeliers.  In addition to a drink bar, there is a seafood bar where lots of oyster shucking was in progress.  The open kitchen in the back is large and bustling.  There is also a more casual bar area downstairs called the Pearl Dive.  The owner, Chef Bradford Heap of Salt (Boulder) and Colterra (Niwot), was in his pristine white chef coat meeting and greeting.  I got to talk to him briefly and was glad to hear his garden has recovered nicely since the flood two years ago.
    If you are an adventurous foodie, you will appreciate Wild Standard's original concepts.  First things first, the cocktails are plentiful and interesting.  They offer something novel to traditional libations and allow you to choose a region of the world for the drink's flavor profile.  For instance, India includes spices such as saffron, cumin, and cardamom.  Then you pick how strong you want the drink and the spirit you desire, or you can let the mixologist recommend the liquor.  Interesting concept, but not sure how adventurous folks want to be with their drinks.  
    Also new and exciting are chef's small plates or tastings that circulate the room in addition to the set menu.  Apparently, these creations may not be seen again, so the point is for you to seize what tempts you.   Cheerful servers come around with trays of small plates along with the cost which run from $6-12.  It's similar to Chinese dim sum without the carts and much pricier.  We chose four plates, half were very good and the other two only mediocre.  The manila clams with house sausage was smoky and rich.  The sword fish was cooked to perfection with a buttery sauce, mashed potatoes, and greens, all well seasoned.  I found the octopus and tuna poke salad to be under seasoned but the taro chips were a nice variation to the ubiquitous corn.
    From the set menu, we ordered The Fish Hold which comes in two different sizes and prices.  We were sharing, so we got the large at $65.  This is a smorgasbord of fresh seafood on a bed of ice which includes oysters, lobster tails, crab legs, shrimp, and a trio of condiments.  The lobster tails came with warm clarified butter; a nice touch.  The crab legs were sweet and salty and worth the effort.  The  Chimu oysters were small but creamy and great with the melon mignonette (vinegar with shallots and lemon).  The poached Key West shrimp were delicious with the lemon aioli (garlic mayo).  This should fix my seafood cravings for a while.
    Our friends ordered the Roasted Eggplant Risotto and the Colorado trout.  The creamy risotto came with seasonal veggies from the Colterra garden and garnished with parmesan.   The sea bass arrived on a wood plank with crispy skin side up and a foamy buerre blanc (butter sauce).  Both were very good according to our foodie companions.
    We ended the night sharing two desserts.  The Pistachio was a financier (French sponge cake) garnished with mascarpone, blood orange gel and carrot puree.  The cake had a nice crumb and was not too sweet, but I didn't taste any pistachio initially.  We determined it was in the brittle.  The more satisfying Chocolate Fondant, which is gluten free, was rich and dense.  The lemon curd provided a tart counterpoint.  
    If you come, expect warm welcome and cheerful service, but also bring your reading glasses.  The place is so dim, several tables whipped out their I Phone flashlights.  Also, the din is so loud that it makes for difficult conversation.  We had a hard time even hearing the servers.  Hopefully, the restaurant will address these two oversights.
Pretty Powder Room

The Kitchen

Bar

Tuna Poke

Convivial Server

Octopus Salad

Manila Clams

The Fish Hold

Colorado Trout

Chocolate Ganache
Pistachio













Friday, October 30, 2015

Nordic Noshings in Iceland

     I have dreamt of visiting Iceland ever since I heard about the legendary Blue Lagoon ten years ago.  Recently, I fulfilled that dream.  Iceland is everything that you see in the commercials, jaw droppingly gorgeous and hauntingly desolate.  It reminds me of Hawaii, another volcanic island, except cold.  There are waterfalls galore, smile inducing rainbows, and stunning coast lines.  The weather however, left something to be desired.  The temperature was in the mid 40s, but when compounded with a constant drizzle and relentless winds, it makes even the heartiest tourist want to burrow under the down comforter, emerging only for a beckoning bowl of meat soup, more on this Icelandic comfort dish later.
    Luckily, Icelanders know how to comfort with food.  And what wonderful offerings they have!  Especially if you stay away from the fermented shark and sheep head, no longer consumed by locals but offered to certain misguided if intrepid visitors.  Mornings find such delights as fresh fruits including watermelon and pineapple as tasty as in Hawaii.  How does a nation in the arctic circle manage such tropical produce?  Hot houses! Keep in mind, the entire population of Iceland is a little over 300,000, so they don't need that many green houses.
    Another tasty Icelandic breakfast staple is skyr, an Icelandic yogurt.  It is rich like Greek yogurt but much creamier.  To this, homemade jam is topped and eaten as is or mixed with granola or muesli.  Healthy and filling, fit for any Nordic God.
    Sadly, Iceland pastries are not what Americans are used to.  They are denser, harder, and not as sweet.  And all are served at room temp.  The deceptively appealing cookies were disappointingly dry and brittle.  I did fall in love with a pizza like pastry with the flakiness of a French croissant with pepperoni on top and a sweet marinara.  It made for a tasty and quick breakfast on a couple occasions.  
     There are twice as many sheep in Iceland as they are people.  These ubiquitous farm animals are allowed to roam in the mountains each summer to forage on various wild herbs.  This in turn provides tasty lamb for a delectable soup that is a staple in every Icelandic household.  We had this inviting dish on multiple occasions and each time it was delicious but slightly different.  Some soups are thicker in consistency, like a stew, others are thinner and clearer, but all consisted of tender chunks of braised lamb with root vegetables and aromatic herbs.  One was served in a gleaming copper pot with a hunk of crusty bread.  Not much else is needed.  
    Seafood lovers will be in heaven in Iceland.  They have some of the freshest and most flavorful fish and shellfish you can savor.  I had an Icelandic cod called Blue Ling, a mild and sweet white fish that was superb whether simply seasoned and grilled or lightly breaded and pan fried.  The sea scallops were large as silver dollars and succulent  as were the shrimp, but my favorite was the Icelandic lobster.  Smaller, but more flavorful than lobster from more temperate climes, their flesh had a creamy consistency that melted in your mouth.  I had a lobster soup that made me weep with happiness.
   I may not soon return to this beautiful country but I will remember it fondly.
Skyr, Icelandic Yogurt


Meat Soup with Rye Bread

Fresh Salad

Icelandic Blue Ling

Lamb Shank with root vegetables

Bakery!

They have Ramen!

Jelly Donut and Mocha

    

Monday, October 5, 2015

Osaka Ramen, Denver

     I have been eagerly anticipating the opening of Osaka Ramen ever since Iast summer.  I am a huge fan of chef Jeff Osaka, formerly of the excellent Twelve on Larimer  Street which was sadly shuttered last year.  Although Osaka Ramen is a departure from the continental fare of Twelve, I had no doubt it would excel under chef Osaka's capable stewardship.
     Osaka Ramen is currently in two locations.  One in Cherry Creek and another in RiNo (River North).  I chose the RiNo location for this review.   Parking is a bit of a challenge even on a weekday lunch visit; however, there is complimentary valet.  The restaurant is located below ground level and next to Park Burger, another popular RiNo destination.  The space is long and narrow with an open kitchen and counter seating as well as numerous tables for two.  Large parties may need to call ahead so they can accommodate you.  
     The menu is sectioned into Small Plates, Bento Boxes, and Ramen.  We began with two small plates: the green beans and the tomago gohan.  The green beans were blanched and shocked to retain their vibrant color.  They were then tossed with a shoyu (Japanese for soy sauce) sesame dressing and chilled.  Crisp and well flavored, this was a light and refreshing appetizer.  A generous sprinkling of toasted black and white sesame seeds provided umami goodness.
     The tomago gohan is a patty of rice, lightly battered, and fried to a golden crisp.   It came topped with a coddled egg, daikon kimchi, and slivered scallions.  It was a gorgeous plate and a clever way to use up leftover rice.  I found the rice indeed crispy, however a bit on the large side.  The daikon kimchi was delicious and provided pungency and kick.  The poached egg served as a binder for all the ingredients.  However, the abundant scallion garnish was a bit overwhelming.
     My friend elected to go with a beef Bento box.  A beautifully presented Japanese laquer box held the beef skewers in one section, rice, and a cabbage salad in others.  The beef was thin sliced sirloin, lightly marinated, grilled, then rolled up and skewered.  It was a flavorful cut of meat and toothsome, not overly tough or tender.  The pickled Japanese radishes simultaneously sweet and tart.  Unfortunately, the cabbage salad was lackluster.  
     My spicy miso ramen was lovely to behold and even more satisfying to taste.  The broth was variegated in color, silky and rich in mouthfeel with great depth of flavor.  The spicy ground pork was packed with flavor.  The egg was a disc of poached perfection and further enriched the decadent broth.  The noodles, although not made in house are customized by Sun Noodles for Osaka Ramen, were cooked al diente with a delightful chewiness.  I am excited to finally find a great ramen house in Denver and can't wait to try the four other ramens on the menu.
Front Entrance

Stairs leading to Osaka Ramen


Wall Art

Open Kitchen with Counter Seating

Green Beans

Tomago Gohan

Spicy Miso Ramen


Beef Bento Box

     

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Avanti Food and Beverage, Denver

     Destination food halls first sprang up in coastal cities such as Eataly in Manhattan and The Hall in San Francisco.  Denver recently joined this trend with Avanti Food and Beverage in Highland.  What was once a hardware/variety store has been cleverly converted into a swanky multi-level urban hangout.  The owners smartly kept the original red brick facade thus preserving history.  
    Avanti is open daily at 11am.  There is complimentary valet parking during popular times otherwise you must search for street parking.  Although the exterior of the building is a harmonious marriage of old and new, the interior is all contemporary.  A hostess is stationed at the entrance to answer any questions.  There are a total of seven food vendors, five on the first floor, and two upstairs.  Each level has its own bar and lounging area with two distinct vibes.  The downstairs is darker with a big screen which will be nice on nippy game days.  The upstairs is definitely geared towards nice weather.  The inviting patio with its umbrellas and lovely outdoor furniture affords an unparalleled view of Denver as does the larger roofed outdoor dining room.
    Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available at the bars.  The owner is a friend of Dogfish Head Brewery (previously of Denver, currently in Delaware) and offers 10 of their beers on tap.  A variety of cocktails based on the usual liquors are also available as well as wines.  I recommend grabbing a drink at one of the bars, then sip it while you peruse all the various food purveyors.
    Avanti provides test kitchens for chefs at established restaurants to experiment with new concepts and get a feel for the public's reception.  For instance, on the first floor, the current chef and sous chef from Bonano Concepts' Bones are helming Mijo.  Similar to Bones which is a noodle based eatery, Mijo offers a variety of noodles with your selection of flavor profiles as well as proteins.  However, unlike the traditional Japanese flavors of ramen broth, the flavors at Mijo are a fusion of east and west.  The bowl I selected here was the tare (a combination of caramelized onion, bean sprouts, and napa cabbage) with udon and tofu.  It was surprisingly sweet, tangy, and spicy.  The noodles were plentiful and cooked al diente but the toppings were minimal and bland.  I found the broth a tad too sweet and tart.  The unseasoned tofu cubes were minimally seared and sadly tasteless.
    Having heard good things regarding Quiero Arepas, which was closed on my first visit, a Sunday, we did not miss the opportunity to try one of these Venezuelan street foods.  Your choice of a variety of fillings such as chicken, pork, beef, beans, cheese, avocado, etc. are stuffed into a thick griddled white corn cake and folded like a taco.  We selected the jamon y queso, ham and cheese.  The corn cake was definitely the star.  Crisp on the outside and moist on the inside, it was delicious by itself.  The filling was somewhat lacking in flavor.  The cheese wasn't melty and the beans were bland.  Also, it was one of the smallest items at Avanti.
     Upstairs at Bixo, I had the seafood paella.  Although beautifully presented, it is not a paella for a purist.  First, it is served on a paper plate and not in a paella pan.  I realize this is a fast casual eatery, but the essence of paella is the caramelized crust that developes on the bottom of the rice as it cooks in the pan.  Second, paella is made with short grain bomba rice from Spain.  Here it is made with a long grain rice that stays separated.  I asked the chef what kind of rice it was to which he answered: "you can use any kind of rice, Uncle Ben's works great".  Converted rice?!  I was aghast.  Fortunately, the seafood were all fresh, well cooked, and delicious.  Truth be told, the rice had a nice color and taste but was more reminiscent of Chinese fried rice than any paella I had in Spain.  
    In conclusion, Avanti is a perfect place to hang out with friends after work where you can grab something to eat while you gab and watch the sun set over Denver.  But if you are a purist foodie with high expectations, you may find this place a bit disappointing and pricey.


Avanti Food and Beverage
 
Old Facade

     
Upstairs Patio



     
Upstairs Outdoor Seating



The list of purveyors

Seafood Paella at Bixo

Tare Udon Tofu Noodle bowl at Mijo

Jamon y Queso Arepa at Quiero Arepas