Epicurean Encounters: Nordic Noshings in Iceland

I have dreamt of visiting Iceland ever since I heard about the legendary Blue Lagoon ten years ago. Recently, I fulfilled that dream. Iceland is everything that you see in the commercials, jaw droppingly gorgeous and hauntingly desolate. It reminds me of Hawaii, another volcanic island, except cold. There are waterfalls galore, smile inducing rainbows, and stunning coast lines. The weather however, left something to be desired. The temperature was in the mid 40s, but when compounded with a constant drizzle and relentless winds, it makes even the heartiest tourist want to burrow under the down comforter, emerging only for a beckoning bowl of meat soup, more on this Icelandic comfort dish later.
Luckily, Icelanders know how to comfort with food. And what wonderful offerings they have! Especially if you stay away from the fermented shark and sheep head, no longer consumed by locals but offered to certain misguided if intrepid visitors. Mornings find such delights as fresh fruits including watermelon and pineapple as tasty as in Hawaii. How does a nation in the arctic circle manage such tropical produce? Hot houses! Keep in mind, the entire population of Iceland is a little over 300,000, so they don't need that many green houses.
Another tasty Icelandic breakfast staple is skyr, an Icelandic yogurt. It is rich like Greek yogurt but much creamier. To this, homemade jam is topped and eaten as is or mixed with granola or muesli. Healthy and filling, fit for any Nordic God.
Sadly, Iceland pastries are not what Americans are used to. They are denser, harder, and not as sweet. And all are served at room temp. The deceptively appealing cookies were disappointingly dry and brittle. I did fall in love with a pizza like pastry with the flakiness of a French croissant with pepperoni on top and a sweet marinara. It made for a tasty and quick breakfast on a couple occasions.
There are twice as many sheep in Iceland as they are people. These ubiquitous farm animals are allowed to roam in the mountains each summer to forage on various wild herbs. This in turn provides tasty lamb for a delectable soup that is a staple in every Icelandic household. We had this inviting dish on multiple occasions and each time it was delicious but slightly different. Some soups are thicker in consistency, like a stew, others are thinner and clearer, but all consisted of tender chunks of braised lamb with root vegetables and aromatic herbs. One was served in a gleaming copper pot with a hunk of crusty bread. Not much else is needed.
Seafood lovers will be in heaven in Iceland. They have some of the freshest and most flavorful fish and shellfish you can savor. I had an Icelandic cod called Blue Ling, a mild and sweet white fish that was superb whether simply seasoned and grilled or lightly breaded and pan fried. The sea scallops were large as silver dollars and succulent as were the shrimp, but my favorite was the Icelandic lobster. Smaller, but more flavorful than lobster from more temperate climes, their flesh had a creamy consistency that melted in your mouth. I had a lobster soup that made me weep with happiness.
I may not soon return to this beautiful country but I will remember it fondly.