Epicurean Encounters: Sassafras American Eatery, Denver, CO

Three year old Sassafras in north Denver has been on my hit list for some time. The Jefferson Park eatery offers southern comfort foods in the historic Dunwoody house. This charming victorian will delight your eyes as well as your palate. On pleasantly sunny days, you can enjoy your meals in the spacious outdoor patio. I even saw a couple pooches.
We were welcomed with an abundance of southern hospitality. I got two complements from the staff for my retro sailor pants. We snagged an enviable four top in the shade without a wait. I imagine the place would be swamped on weekends.
Tables are covered with plastic lacy table cloths and country inspired cloth napkins. Each table comes with its own set of kitschy but adorable salt and pepper shakers. Housemade condiments such as berry jam and pepper jelly are also staples on the tables. Vibrant flower pots and garden gnomes can be found throughout the patio.
The coffee was strong and hot and frequently refilled, albeit a bit steep at $3.50. They also offer a variety of juices, smoothies, and tempting milkshakes. The Capitol Hill location (on Colfax) has a liquor license and is able to offer some alcoholic beverages in addition.
I was enticed by several items on the menu. After consulting with our enthusiastic and opinionated server, I decided to get the very popular Chicken Fried Eggs and Smoked Buffalo Hash. I soon saw why it was so popular.
This visually stunning dish arrived with two coddled then battered and deep fried eggs perched atop a carefully plated mound of hash and a cornbread cutout. When you pierce the egg, the golden yolk runneth over into the orange chili Hollandaise to create a molten piece of abstract art. The buffalo hash was tender, finely chopped, and distinctly smoky, but I found it under seasoned on its own. A dip into the Fresno chili Hollandaise resolved this dilemma nicely. A forkful of the egg, hash, cornbread, and sauce proved divine, if you can fit it all into your mouth.
Don's Lost Bread (Pain Perdu or French Toast) was equally layered with nuanced flavor. Three generous slices of French bread dipped in egg batter and pan fried came dusted with powdered sugar. It was garnished with enormous, succulent blackberries as well as spiced pecan halves and a dollop of cinnamon butter. The Satsuma syrup provided a subtle orange flavor that was not overly sweet.
We will definitely be returning to sample some beignets and the many other appealing items.