Friday, May 8, 2015

Nocturne Jazz Club, Denver


     I am jazzed about Denver's new night club.  Nocturne Jazz and Supper Club opened two months ago in the burgeoning River North (RiNo) district.  Unlike El Chapultepac with its dive-bar environs, Nocturne is a sleek and stylish hide-away fit for the Rat Pack.  Surreptitiously located on a side street off Larimer, you might miss it if you blink.  Parking is scarce around here, but they are working on valet service.  Nocturne is open nightly from Monday to Saturday.  Local artists are featured nightly as well as occasional national acts such as Eddie Gomez.   Artist fees are $5 on weekdays and $10 on weekends and are added to your tab.  Reservations are recommended especially for the more coveted national acts, which of course cost more.
     Why am I reviewing a jazz club, you say?  Not only does Nocturne purvey a much needed genre of music, the chef has created a rotating 5 course tasting menu inspired by classic jazz albums from artists such as John Coltrane.  Also intriguing is the creative cocktail menu.  When we visited recently on a Thursday night to hear the excellent Annie Booth Trio, we had already supped but was able to imbibe on a couple cocktails and small plates.
     The space is in a former warehouse, so it's all exposed brick and duct work with high ceilings.  A tasteful art deco mirror graces the bar.  The main room surrounds the stage with multiple four tops as well as a wrap around lounge and high tops.  A spiral staircase leads to a smaller seating area upstairs. The staff is well trained and professional.  They are attentive but not hovering.  
     The cocktail list comprises of classic oldies as well as new fangled creations.  As fans of the retro, we stuck to a Boulevardier and an Old Fashioned, both well crafted.  We ordered an appetizer of Squid and Octopus.  It was flavorful but somewhat lean on the cephalopods.  It would be more appropriately named beans three ways with some squid and octopus.  The dish had plentiful creamy cannelloni beans slow braised with hunks of smoky lardons (pork fat).  Additionally, endamame and garbonzo beans also made an appearance.  I enjoyed the few bright asparagus tips cooked to retain their snap.  A generous slice of Grateful Bread focaccia served to sop up the jus.  This comfort dish was plenty filling even as a starter.
     The Brown Butter Almond Cake sounded too good to pass up.  We were not disappointed.  Individual sized cake molds allow a wonderfully moist, buttery cake with golden brown and crisp edges.  An ala mode scoop of raspberry basil ice cream enhanced the nuttiness of the cake.  A cloud like pistachio powder was a culinary wonder.  Crushed pistachio drizzle added crunch and visual interest.  The final garnish was three ripe and juicy blackberries.  A half order of French press coffee ensured we were alert for our ride home.
     All the other plates we glimpsed looked equally appetizing.  We'll definitely reserve our appetites for our next visit.  If you go, be prepared for a lovely night of entertainment.  This is no place for a slouch, time to polish your penny loafers and  break out that wiggle dress.

Annie Booth Trio

Upper level seating
Bar 
Staircase to upper level
Old Fashioned
Squid and Octopus





















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