Epicurean Encounters: Ocean Prime, Denver

As a rule, I avoid chain restaurants as the food tends to be pedestrian. I will, however; make an exception for Ocean Prime. This national chain can be found in such cities as New York, Boston, Indianapolis, and Detroit. We are fortunate to have one in Denver on Larimer Street. Ocean Prime is a classic steak house in the tradition of Morton's, Brook's, and Del Frisco. Additionally, they offer excellent seafood.
We celebrated Don's birthday two years ago at Ocean Prime, and I am still paying for it. I say that in jest, but the prices are rather ridiculous. When a generous friend gifted us with a dinner at Ocean Prime, I did not hesitate to reserve a table for Don's birthday this year. Having grown up in the midwest, steak and potatoes are to him, what rice and soy sauce are to me. This place is right up his alley.
Denver's Ocean Prime is elegant and posh from the hostess stand to the upstairs dining room. We were seated on both occasions in the main dining room, but I'll be sure to request a table by the window next time. It's just so pretty with Larimer all lit up at night. Servers don crisp white shirts, spotless aprons, and pressed dark trousers. They execute service seamlessly like ninjas. Each time I visited the powder room, the staff would gentlemanly step aside with a gracious, "after you" as if I were the queen.
Cocktails at Ocean Prime are actually reasonably priced, most can be had for $12. Concoctions made from a spectrum of liquors are sure to please just about anyone. Wines, both by the glass and bottle, are listed and presented on a slick I Pad. Don ordered a classic gin martini with Bombay Sapphire and blue cheese olives. I tasted one and the rich, creamy blue cheese complemented perfectly with the briny olive. My Whiskey Clover was made with Gentleman Jack Whiskey, honey water, and fresh squeezed orange and lemon juices, garnished with a slip of tangerine peel. It was smooth, warm, and not overly sweet. Both cocktails were shaken table side and poured into ice cold martini glasses.
The bread loaf arrived sliced, hot, and beautifully glazed. The distinct buttery aroma is sure to conquer the most ascetic non-bread eater. The golden, crisp crust contrasted nicely with the soft, cloud-like interior. With a smear of butter, it was one of the best breads I've tasted.
Our salads took a while but were worth the wait. My iceberg lettuce wedge was the size of Mt. Elbert. A bite of the lettuce with the thick, rich cabernet buttermilk dressing, smoked bacon, and blue cheese was weepingly good. The cherry tomato halves provided contrasting color but were otherwise unnecessary. Don's Ocean Prime house salad paled in appearance to my wedge beauty, although all elements were balanced and cohesive including: romaine, apples, goat cheese, walnuts, and a shallot mustard vinegrette.
I could not resist the call of the twin lobster tails, and was not disappointed. Succulent lobster tails, expertly cooked and presented with shells, were as delicious as they were visually stunning. Shaved stalks of steamed, then lightly sautéed asparagus still retained the bright green color and crisp texture. A glass of non-oaky chardonnay is perfect with the lobster. I recommend the Louis Jadot Pouilly Fuisse. It is attention to details such as serving clarified butter and shaving the asparagus that sets Ocean Prime apart. I can't help thinking there's probably some poor culinary school intern peeling 100 lbs of asparagus.
Don's massive ribeye was seared with a black peppercorn crust and accessorized with an au poivre sauce (peppercorn sauce). The rich sauce tasted of veal demi glace infused with peppercorn. The steak, cooked medium rare, melted in your mouth with minimal mastication. The steaks here are meant to be savored, each bite paired with a sip of full bodied red such as a Napa Valley Cabernet or a left bank Bordeaux. This is a carnivore's dream and a vegetarian's nightmare. We could only eat half of this whole pounder of a steak. The leftovers will make an excellent steak salad.
Our only accompaniment to our entrees, which are all ala carte, was sautéed button mushrooms. A generous boat full of buttery 'shrooms arrived hot, tender, well seasoned, and most importantly, not too heavy. All the starchy sides, however tempting, would be too weighty.
Our server kindly comped our dessert since we were celebrating Don's birthday. Last year, we ordered the amazing ten layer Mile High carrot cake, but decided to try the Baked Alaska. Where else would we ever get this dessert? After observing Jaque Pepin making this time consuming creation, I will not likely be making this at home.
A wedge of Alaska arrived with beautifully inscribed "Happy Birthday" in chocolate sauce. A neapolitan ice cream core is wrapped with pound cake, then a thick layer of caramelized meringue. Dark chocolate and raspberry sauces completed the ice cream cake as well as fresh berries and mint. French press coffee was the only accompaniment needed.
Please do not let the fact that Ocean Prime is a chain keep you from visiting. Having developed the critical senses of a culinarian, this meal was even better than the last we had here.