Epicurean Encounters: Argyll Whiskey Beer, Denver

One of the finest food writers in Denver has a weekly column in the Denver Post. He happens to be a chef, currently at the very good Spuntino in Highland and the recently reincarnated Argyll Whiskey Beer. I have been a fan of chef John Broening since he helmed Duo, Olivea, and Le Grande Bistro and Oyster Bar. His writing is simple but erudite, appealing to foodies and neophytes alike. I have experimented with his recipes many times and am grateful for his generosity.
Argyll Whiskey Beer has been on my hit list since it reopened in the space previously occupied by Las Margaritas in Uptown, 17th and Downing to be precise.
The philosophy at Argyll is "Eat Well, Drink Slowly, and Speak Warmly". The avuncular space is reminiscent of an old Victorian Pub. There is plenty of room, and we were promptly seated without a reservation. The friendly staff donned contemporary plaid shirts and denim; some accessorized with pageboy hats.
After watching Mind of a Chef's segment on English pub food, I was hankering for some proper British grub. Having been alcohol free for 40 days, I was dreaming of sweet, amber hued whiskey. Argyll's whiskey and Scotch list is mind blowingly extensive and worldly. Draft beers are plentiful, I counted 19. There is a scattering of white and red wines for non-beer and whiskey imbibers.
I decided to try a couple of whiskey cocktails that sounded interesting. The Thoroughbred, made with Buffalo Trace Bourbon intrigued me with the addition of smoked black tea and grapefruit bitters. A hefty sliver of lemon peel imparted refreshing citrus with each sip. This drink is made to be savored but it was so delicious, I soon ordered another cocktail. The Vieux Carre (old square) made with Rittenhouse rye and cognac was equally aromatic and drinkable. Don had a Manhattan made with Elijah Criag Barrel Proof Kentucky Bourbon to start and ended with a very smooth Bull and Bush Man Beer English IPA that was surprisingly drinkable with minimal hoppiness. One caveat, their drinks are stiff!
Accompanying our stellar drinks were excellent house made chips. Complimentary thick cut, golden brown, and greaseless potato chips arrived with malt gastrique (a reduction of malt vinegar and molasses) for dipping. The sweet and tart gastrique paired splendidly with the salty crunchy chips. This perfect bar snack ensures you are thirsty for more drinks.
Enticed by our house chips, we eagerly awaited our appetizer, the Scotch Egg. If you have never had one before, it is a soft boiled egg wrapped in sausage and deep fried. Here it is served with an apple fennel salad and mustard aioli. The cool, sweet slaw balanced the rich, runny egg and sausage. The mustard added a nice tang.
Don quickly gravitated toward the Lamb burger.
Cooked to order, it was savory, juicy, and not overly gamey. Non-lamb fans would even embrace this burger. The creamy tzatziki-like sauce was the yin to the yang of the meat. Another condiment, tomato jam, provided contrasting color, sweetness, and acidity. Chopped romaine lettuce added greenery and crunch. The buttery buns were soft, soaking up the lamb juice. My only beef with the dish is the side of fries. They were well cooked and seasoned but instead of shoestrings, I wish they were steak cut, like the Brits'.
I was torn between the fish and chips, voted best by 5280, and A Spot of Tea. I decided with the Spot of Tea. It was beautifully presented. A bowl of ramen noodles, braised and shredded duck, and pickled veggies was topped off table side with a spot of ramen broth in its own tea pot. Great idea! This ensures the noodles don't get over cooked. The pork and chicken broth was somewhat lacking in depth of flavor. Perhaps I was overwhelmed by the dominant notes of the pickled daikon radish and carrots. A poached egg, napa cabbage, and cilantro finished the dish. I may have to go to Japan for that ramen I am seeking.
Several desserts tempted us. I had my heart set on the whiskey cake after reading Chef John's column, but our server (from Atlanta) recommended the Banoffee. We decided to get both. It has been 40 days since Don had dessert. We fell off the wagon, hard.
The whiskey cake arrived warm with an inviting whiff of buttery whiskiness. The quenelled (football shaped) creme fraiche and orange marmalade was served on the side. A forkful of all three proved to be an excellent combination and not too sweet. The only critique for this dessert was that the cake started to get rubbery, likely from being warmed in the microwave.
The Banoffee tart is a banana toffee pudding served in a pate sucre shell. An abundance of whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles garnished the already sweet dessert. A side of golden raisins in caramel sauce seemed superfluous. This is an instance of too much of a good thing. The dessert was so sweet, I could feel my pancreas go into overdrive. Of course a boy from Georgia would like this dessert.
I am already looking forward to my next visit at Argyll Whiskey Beer where I'll be sure to get the fish and chips and house made charcuterie!