PMG Wine Bistro, Boulder, Colorado

     On the endorsement of some newfound foodie friends, we visited PMG Wine Bistro in Boulder for happy hour.  PMG is an acronym for the French phrase, "pour ma gueule", meaning "for my trap", which refers to the wines a winemaker would stash to drink with family and friends.  True to its name, we witnessed several wine vendors during our visit.
     Located off Pearl Street next to Sushi Tora, the space is open and bright with lots of windows.  The dining area isn't very big, but the spacious bar and adjacent high tops provide plentiful space to meet up with friends for happy hour.  In addition to a white and red wine, a beer and a couple cocktails were offered during happy hour which runs from 4 to 6pm.  I chose the happy hour white wine and Don got the red.  Both were served in cardboard containers and reminded me of Yellowtail.  For my second glass, I decided to order a French Chinon Rose, which was very good and worth the $3 upgrade.  
     Our server was a convivial and knowledgeable young lady.  On her recommendation, we tried the Chickpea Panelles.  Ground chickpea is made into a flour which turned out golden cushions of this popular Sicilian street food.  Rather than the traditional way and eaten as a sandwich, it was served with with Greek yogurt and honey.  This kept the dish light on a hot summer day.  It's simplicity was surprisingly pure and delightful.  
     Another well executed dish was the Summer Squash Salad.  Gorgeous yellow ribbons of summer squash were simply tossed with a hint of house made anchovy dressing and garnished with toasted almonds and shaved pecorino cheese.  Every bite was a burst of freshness and a celebration of summer.
     The fried zucchini starter featured shaved zucchini deep fried with crispy batter and garnished with grated cheese, a drizzle of honey, and a pinch of chili.  Although tasty, it was not as impressive as some of the other starters.  
     A more rib sticking plate of Lydia's pate really reminds one of a French country kitchen.  Apparently, Lydia was the original maker of their pate, but she has since ventured forth and passed on her fine tuned recipe to her apprentice.  Two grilled crostini heaped with generous mounds of chicken pate is sure to satisfy the hungriest guest.  The pate was well seasoned with a creamy mouthfeel.
     The house cured ham came with thicker than expected slices of ham, white cheddar, house pickled veggies, and whole seed mustard.  I appreciate the attention to detail that the chef took to shape the mustard into quenelles (little footballs).  The carrots and cucumbers were not overly tart and provided a nice contrast to the rich meat.
     We were told to hurry back for dinner to sample the entrees including the house staple cast iron crispy chicken, which is so popular that they must always have it on the menu.  Otherwise, it is nice to see that they change the menu regularly, even on a daily basis based on local sources.

Chickpea Panelles

Summer Squash Salad

PMG Dining Area

Bar Area

Food Service Window

Fried Zucchini

Lydia's Pate

House Cured Ham

24 Carrot Bistro, Erie, Colorado: A Gold Mine

     I am ecstatic to introduce to you, dear readers, a true gold mine in affordable fine dining, right in the little town of Erie.  We struck gold when we discovered this month- old gem while biking.  24 Carrot Bistro is an exemplary example of good food, done right.  Everything I learned in culinary school, they are doing it.  I was not surprised  that a couple of their line cooks are Escoffier students.  They are open for lunch and dinner every day of the week and soon, brunch on weekends.
     24 Carrot, a play on words, sources its produce and meats locally.  They also recycle and compost as much as possible.  They have a thriving herb garden in the back patio.  The main dining room is long, high, and spacious.  Garden relics adorn a wall with exposed red brick.  The floors are hard wood, as is the gorgeous bar.  The bartender is not only well groomed with sharp sartorial sensibilities, his craft cocktails are equally lovely.  I highly recommend the peach, black tea, and tarragon house soda.  It was well balanced, not too sweet, and refreshing after a 23 mile ride.  (Note to fellow bicyclists, it's actually only 13 miles from Broomfield to the restaurant).
     Somewhat embarrassed to dine in our spandex attire, we were assured by the warm hostess that all are welcome.
Our waitress was prompt and friendly and tolerant of our many questions.  The lunch menu is smartly limited to a single page.  From the appetizer section, we chose the Daily Dip Trio.  It arrived with three separate vessels of dip and "chip".  The first was a creamy buttermilk and feta with grilled crusty bread.  It was light and fresh.  The second was house made tortilla chips with guacamole.  The guacamole was slightly chunky with lots of onion. The chips were fried to a golden and delicious crisp. The third was a red pepper hummus with crudités of carrots and radishes.  All were delicious and a bargain at $6.  
     The salads all sounded wonderful, but my southern heart desired the shrimp and grits.  I was not disappointed.  A visually tantalizing plate of fanned Gulf Coast shrimp sat atop a bed of yellow Anson Mills grits and bright green arugula.  An artfully drawn coral remoulade sauce provided visual interest as well as depth of flavor.  The shrimp were seasoned and cooked perfectly.  The mildly spicy remoulade was not over powering.  The grits were creamy and toothsome.  The peppery greens provided  contrasting sharpness.
     The Bistro Burger, one of the most popular items, was stunning to behold.  The thoughtful plating features the starring burger.  The waitress thoughtfully disclosed that "medium" would still have some red in the center, as it should if the best quality meat is used, but not everyone enjoys this.  Ribbons of house made pickles were skewered atop golden brioche buns.  The burger comes with melted white cheddar cheese at no additional cost (who would turn that down?).  A thick slice of green tomato, purple onion, and spring greens elevates this otherwise common American staple.  It was hard to get the whole stack in one bite, but once you do, you can't put it down.  The accompanying bistro fries were equally addictive.  They are the epitome of GBD, golden, brown, and delicious.  All for $10!
     Of course, they would have a pastry chef.  And the list of goods was tempting, including a 24 Carrot cake!  Don's favorite.  How we walked away without dessert is a miracle.  But we still had to bike home, and that's hard to do on a too full stomach.
   I was so smitten, I had to extend my congrats to the chef/owner.  He was humble and gracious to take time out of his busy day to chat with us.  This place makes me eagerly anticipate what's next.  I may just become a regular!

24 Carrot Front Door

Fresh Farm Flora

Gorgeous Bar and DJ, the Tender

DJ's arsenal

Main dining area

Garden art

Herb Garden

Back patio

House Soda: peach, black tea, and tarragon

Daily Dip Tiro

Shrimp n' Grits

Bistro Burger

Fine Dining Part II, Madera Grill, Louisville, CO

     Madera Grill opened this summer in old town Louisville in the space formerly occupied by Rex.  I was hesitant to try it due to the pedestrian and poor fare offered by its predecessor.  After reading some promising Yelp reviews, we invited some foodie friends to try it out.
    Madera, which means "wood" in Spanish, indeed leans heavily on grilling.  It attempts to inject Louisville with a dose of fine dining in an otherwise family oriented food scene.  It starts off promising enough. The ample space has been completely renovated.  Instead of a college bar vibe, it is now elegantly appointed with dark wood, high ceilings and generous bars.  White table cloths adorn the tables.  The servers don formal crisp white shirts with dark pants and long aprons.  Flatware and cloth napkins are preset for each guest.  So far so good.
     On a Saturday night in Louisville, the place was curiously empty.  We had reservations and were seated upstairs.  One caveat with the dining room, the adjacent doors to the patio are open, thus you are pestered with flies all evening.  Before we could enjoy our cocktails, we had to relocate to a more secure booth, the first one actually leaned into our guests as soon as another party sat behind them.  They do offer some interesting creations such as the Cucumber Tini made with a splash of sparkling wine.  It was a bit sweeter than a classic martini but still refreshing.  A handful of beers and a more extensive wine list are also available.
     We started with some small plates that appealed to my Spanish and Mexican friends.  The stunning grilled artichoke arrived whole with a lovely balsamic and olive oil.  Rather than leave well enough alone, a ramekin of incongruously thick sun-dried tomato dip was served alongside.  The garlicky aioli totally masked the freshness of the artichoke.  But if you ignore this mis-step, the appetizer was quite good.
     On the enthusiasm of our server, we ordered the goat cheese and crostini starter.  The goat cheese is locally sourced from Haystack Farm, which is always a plus.  A medallion of goat cheese, lightly breaded in fine bread crumbs was fried to a golden crisp.  It was a delicious appetizer, but rather chintzy in size.  
     Much to our chagrin, the stuffed Pasilla pepper turned out to be the more common Pablano.  When we inquired about this mis-label, the food runner, who is of Mexican descent, replied that Americans don't know the difference.  Wrong answer.  I have nothing against Pablano peppers, and it was cooked quite well.  However, I am a stickler for truth in labeling.  This carelessness indicates a lack of knowledge.  The common place oozy cheese also demotes the dish.  The piquant tomatillo sauce was the one bright spot of this dish.
     We ordered some wines by the glass with dinner.  It was a bit of a turn off that they were served in such coarse stemware as the cheap ones I used in college.  It would behoove them to invest a little money in nicer stemware to fully release the wines' aromas.  
     I was happy to find my skirt steak cooked to order and full of flavor.  Lightly marinated in a mustard-soy sauce, it was juicy and tender and garnished with toasted sesame seeds.  Curiously, it was served alongside an unappealingly limp sweet potato patty.  They would have been more appealing as nicely crisped fries.  Or how about some crisp stir fry veggies to compliment the Asian accent. 
     The lamb chops, the priciest item on the menu, were well executed and beautifully plated.  Three  seasoned chops were propped against a mound of polenta which complimented the lamb well.  It was served with a herbed pesto which provided a bright accent.  Some string beans or other green vegetable would have been welcome.
     Sadly, the Flat Iron Chicken was a bit of a visual mess.  The chicken was completely obliterated by a layer of herbs which blended with the brussels sprouts.  The bite of chicken I tasted was rather dry, but might have been better with the accompanying herb butter.  The brussels sprouts were soggy and uninspired.  The crispy home potatoes were the best thing about this dish.
     The Mocha Creme Caramel dessert was pretty enough but had a mousse-like consistency rather than the flan we were expecting.  It was tasty though, and we ate it all.
     I really wanted to like this place.  For the price, I expected more than it could deliver.  If you read the website invitation, you would expect to be greeted warmly by the management and inspired to return often like a second home.  Regrettably, this may be a one time visit for me.

Goat Cheese with Crostini

"Pasilla" stuffed pepper

Grilled Artichoke

Skirt Steak 

Lamb Chops

Flatiron Chicken

Mocha Creme Caramel

     

Fine Dining Done Right: Milk and Honey, Denver

     This weekend I experienced both a sub-par attempt at fine dining as well as fine dining impeccably executed.  I will begin with the one done right.
     The two month old Milk and Honey restaurant in Larimer Square is everything a diner paying good money expects.  The location is romantic; it is in the same courtyard as Bistro Vendome, albeit one level down.  We were told the extensive renovation of the space which spanned two years included digging an additional 5 feet of space under ground.  This design foresight has succeeded in a space that feels roomy rather than cave-like as many subterranean spaces tend to feel.  The exposed red brick contrasts nicely with the creamy upholstery.  Dimly lit, although not so much that presbyopes are at a loss even with their reading glasses, the room inspires intimacy.  The temperature was the only misfire as it was a bit nippy even for a summer eve.  If not for the impending rain clouds overhead, we might have chosen to dine al fresco.
     Equal attention is paid to staff selection at Milk and Honey.  We were warmly greeted and seated by an elegant and leggy hostess in such on-trend garb as to rival any Soho establishment.  Our patient and erudite server reminds me of Keanu Reeves, an esthetic mix of Asian and European ancestry.      
     Upon perusing the menu (which changes monthly), I gather that it is based on French techniques with Asian, Mediterranean, and Italian influence.  For instance, we started with the Foie Gras Bon Bons.  Foie Gras, or "fat goose", is most definitely French.  For a unique twist, balls of the rich liver are frozen with liquid nitrogen, then dusted in a cashew brittle, and served with a tart cherry syrup.  I have never experienced anything quite like it.  It was sweet, it was creamy, it was rich, it was crunchy.  I can eat it for dessert!  
     The "small" plate of Honey Laquered Lamb Belly was rather substantial and rivaled the foie gras in richness.  A square of lamb belly seared perfectly and lightly glazed with honey is served on a wood plank.  The meat was mild in flavor and fork tender with just the right amount of fat.   The accompanying mint apple gelee did not really taste of mint.  The contrast to the rich meat was provided by the slaw of julienned tart apples and red peppers with chiffonade mint leaves.  This was a bite of brightness, crunch, and tang. Having had pork belly in many iterations, I am a convert to the leaner but still flavorful lamb.
     Having graduated from culinary school, I consider myself versed in cooking terminology.  At Milk and Honey, I was excited to discover unfamiliar lexicon.  The small plate of Charred Octopus arrived atop a mound of stewed tomatoes and cranberry beans which were referred to as barlotti.  Artfully drizzled at the edge of the gorgeous plate was a bright green herb infused olive oil called chermoula.  This northern Africa sauce/marinade is frequently used with seafood.  It did provide a brightness to the smoky and succulent octopus.  Unfortunately, the beans were undercooked and lacking in creaminess.
     Our next plate was a salad of Heirloom Tomatoes.  This thoughtfully arranged plate came with four different varieties of tomatoes.  The seasonal tomatoes were ripe and juicy.  The yellow cherry tomato was a burst of sunshine in your mouth.  Shaved parmesan and cucumber slivers graced the salad as well as a single sprig of licoricey fennel frond.  A drizzle of olive oil, good balsamic and aromatic shallots was all this  plate needed to show off simple summer goodness.  
     We made the right call to split the Hanger Steak after witnessing several plates go by.  A  thick rope of nicely charred steak cooked to order at medium rare was juicy and delicious.  This cut of beef is prized for its flavor and often hoarded by butchers for their own consumption.  A swoosh of black truffle vinaigrette added a hint of tartness to the steak with each bite.  The string beans had been blanched and shocked to retain their brightness while maintaining the correct doneness.  Red cherry tomatoes added visual interest and additional acidity.
      The service was almost seamless with one exception.  We waited a while for our bottle to arrive.  Another table's wine was brought to us by mistake.  When our French Bordeaux finally arrived, it paired exceptionally well with each course.  The Fleur d'Amelie, a right bank Bordeaux, has Merlot as the dominant grape.  I was impressed with the number of excellent wines without exorbitant price tags.   
     We would have loved to enjoy some coffee with dessert, but had to rush to "The Book of Mormon".  I can't even begin to imagine what sweet delights await after the sensational feast we just had.   I am beyond thrilled to introduce you to this wonderful new jewel, and eagerly anticipate my next culinary adventure here.  Bon Appetite!

Foie Gras Bon Bons

Honey Glazed Lamb Belly

French Bordeaux for $45

Charred Octopus with Bartolli and Chermoula

Heirloom Tomato Salad

Hangar Steak with Black Truffle Vinaigrette

     
     

Cafe Aion, Boulder, CO

       Looking for a place to eat before heading to the Shakespeare Festival?  There are plenty of eateries on The Hill which is within walking distance of the Mary Rippon Theater; however, hanging out with the college kids at The Sink seems less than desirable.  If you prefer a more grown up but still fun atmosphere, look no further than across the street where Cafe Aion serves up Spanish tapas and paella.
     Even on a 90 degree day, the sidewalk seating provided a shady reprieve.  Ice water is served readily.  
You can't really have tapas without Sangria, and both the red and white varieties are served here.  I chose the white Sangria.  It was refreshing and herbaceous.  On this night, they were also featuring 4 beers from yet another new craft brewery.  
     Thursday nights are also music nights.  A couple started their set promptly at 6:30 in the indoor dining room.  Lively blue grass music drifted out the open window so outdoor patrons can enjoy the music, too.
     Our friendly server promptly took our order.  We opted for four plates to share.  The Night Menu is divided into three sections:  Tapas (with the most items), Plates, and Paellas.  From the Tapas section, we selected the oyster mushrooms, manilla clams and fried cauliflower.  The oyster mushrooms were from a favorite local purveyor, Hazel Dell.  Meaty mushrooms are sautéed in sherry, thyme, and garlic and then heaped onto two crusty grilled bread slices.  The bread was baked to golden perfection and marked by the grill.  Each satisfying bite of the crisp crust contrasted nicely with the hearty mushroom. 
     The Manila clams arrived simultaneously with the mushrooms.  This was a lovely plate of Mediterranean style seafood.  Perfectly cooked, tender clams, still in their shells swam in a pretty saffron broth.  Chunks of house smoked Spanish chorizo sausage provided aromatic smokiness.  Preserved lemon offered some tang to the rich dish.  But the star of the dish was the freshly shucked spring peas.  You can taste the grassy goodness in these toothsome peas the size of Tahitian pearls.  Don't hesitate to request more grilled bread to soak up the delightful broth.
     Next came the beef short ribs from the Plates section.  A savory hunk of boneless, fork tender, slow braised beef sat atop an even more generous serving of chunky mashed potatoes.  Pickled carrots and onions offered a surprisingly good mouth puckering tang.  The rich and creamy potatoes were delicious and did not take away from the meat.  It was a scrumptious dish and a great value for $16, but somewhat heavy for a mid summer night's meal.
     The only short coming of the meal was the server omitted to enter the cauliflower.  Maybe she predicted we would be sufficiently stuffed.  More food would have induced somnolence, and we needed all the alertness we can muster to sit through 3 hours of old English.
     I am intrigued by the paella dishes and vow to return on paella night when $49 gets you a paella dish to share along with a bottle of wine.  From what I have sampled thus far, expectations should be fulfilled.

Oyster Mushrooms

Manila Clams

Braised Short Ribs

     

Busaba Thai Restaurant, Louisville, Colorado

      Busaba, which means flower, occupies a corner of the Centennial Pavillions shopping center in Louisville.  This is probably the third reincarnation as a Thai restaurant in that space, but unlike its predecessors, it is here to stay. 
     There is no shortage of Thai purveyors around town, thus one must excel in all aspects for longevity.  I do not profess to be a Thai expert, having never traveled to the exotic land.  My experience is limited to American Thai cuisine.  However, I do know what makes a restaurant worth returning to.
     First of all, as anyone who has worked in the service industry knows, a patron's initial impression is of foremost importance.  At Busaba, you will be quickly acknowledged even  with a full room of diners.  We were surprised to see how busy the place was on a Tuesday evening.  The only seating left was a two top at the bar, which we gladly accepted as a throng of eager diners ensued.  From this vantage point, I see that the U shaped bar hogs half the dining room.  It would make more sense to break it down and free up room for more seating.  
     The bar tender/owner arrived shortly to take our order.  Though friendly, this tiny matriarch means business. She reminds me of the soup nazi on Seinfeld, albeit with a smile.  I pity the unprepared patron who cannot recite their order on cue.  She does not have the time to wait while you dally.  Fortuitously, I just read a recommendation on the place and had my list ready.
     We started with the Busaba Chicken Puffs appetizer.  A well seasoned and aromatic mixture of curry potato, carrots, peas, and corn with minced chicken is embraced by a hot off the griddle roti.  This flat bread reminds me of a Chinese pancake without the scallions.  Nicely puffed and golden, the bread had a chewy toothsomeness.  Although accompanied with a sweet and tart cucumber relish, I found myself wishing for a drizzle of sambal oelek or sriracha.  
     Next came the generously portioned papaya salad or Som Tom.  You can get this dish with or without shrimp.  Julienned papaya and carrots are bathed in a dressing flavored with lime, tamarind, and fish sauce.  This is a perfect summer time dish that pairs excellently with spicy food.  It is sweet and tart, with lots of crunch.  Crushed peanuts, found throughout Thai and southeast Asian cuisine, provide the requisite garnish.  The dish could be even better if the peanuts were roasted a tad bit longer and more finely crushed.  Mine had mostly peanut halves.
     The pumpkin curry was a beautiful shade of orange.  Chunks of pumpkin, red peppers, zucchini, and green beans soaked up the heat of the curry so that every bite warmed your mouth further.  We opted for chicken with this dish.  Other meats to select from include beef, pork, chicken, and shrimp for an additional charge.  All of which can be added to any of the curry dishes.   
     The star of the evening was the Goong Ob Woon Sen.  Having never ordered this dish, I am now besotted.  This dish stands out for its depth of flavor.  Sticky bean thread "noodles" are stir fried with whole garlic cloves, sliced ginger, generous chunks of bacon, and tail on shrimp.  All the ingredients were tossed in brown soy which imparted a savory and sweet, yin and yang.  I can taste the Chinese influence in this dish.   
     All of the dishes can be made to your specification of heat.  We chose medium for all dishes including the papaya salad.  It was a subtle and tolerable amount of heat, not enough to induce perspiration.  We are encouraged to up the ante to hot next visit.
     Busaba definitely has a team player mentality.  Staff are trained to multi task.   You will not have to wait long to be greeted or have your water refilled.  Food arrives promptly and hot.  The service is attentive without being obsequious.  This is a rare gem in suburbia.

The Bar

Dining area

Papaya Salad

Pumpkin Curry

Goong Ob Woon Sen

Busaba Chicken Puffs

     

Sassafras American Eatery, Denver, CO

     Three year old Sassafras in north Denver has been on my hit list for some time.  The Jefferson Park eatery offers southern comfort foods in the historic Dunwoody house.  This charming victorian will delight your eyes as well as your palate.  On pleasantly sunny days, you can enjoy your meals in the spacious outdoor patio.  I even saw a couple pooches.  
     We were welcomed with an abundance of southern hospitality.  I got two complements from the staff for my retro sailor pants.  We snagged an enviable four top in the shade without a wait.  I imagine the place would be swamped on weekends.  
     Tables are covered with plastic lacy table cloths and country inspired cloth napkins.  Each table comes with its own set of kitschy but adorable salt and pepper shakers.  Housemade condiments such as berry jam and pepper jelly are also staples on the tables.  Vibrant flower pots and garden gnomes can be found throughout the patio.
     The coffee was strong and hot and frequently refilled, albeit a bit steep at $3.50.  They also offer a variety of juices, smoothies, and tempting milkshakes.  The Capitol Hill location (on Colfax) has a liquor license and is able to offer some alcoholic beverages in addition.
     I was enticed by several items on the menu.  After consulting with our enthusiastic and opinionated server, I decided to get the very popular Chicken Fried Eggs and Smoked Buffalo Hash.  I soon saw why it was so popular.
This visually stunning dish arrived with two coddled then battered and deep fried eggs perched atop a carefully plated mound of hash and a cornbread cutout.  When you pierce the egg, the golden yolk runneth over into the orange chili Hollandaise to create a molten piece of abstract art. The buffalo hash was tender, finely chopped, and distinctly smoky, but I found it under seasoned on its own.  A dip into the Fresno chili Hollandaise resolved this dilemma nicely.  A forkful of the egg, hash, cornbread, and sauce proved divine, if you can fit it all into your mouth.
     Don's Lost Bread (Pain Perdu or French Toast) was equally layered with nuanced flavor.  Three generous slices of French bread dipped in egg batter and pan fried came dusted with powdered sugar.  It was garnished with enormous, succulent blackberries as well as spiced pecan halves and a dollop of cinnamon butter.  The Satsuma syrup provided a subtle orange flavor that was not overly sweet.  
     We will definitely be returning to sample some beignets and the many other appealing items. 

House made berry jam and jalepeno jelly

Bottomless coffee

Patio dining

Salt and Pepper shakers

Front entrance

Whimsical garden decor

Rear entrance

Lost Bread

Chicken Fried Eggs with Smoked Buffalo Hash