Epicurean Encounters: Fine Dining Done Right: Milk and Honey, Denver

This weekend I experienced both a sub-par attempt at fine dining as well as fine dining impeccably executed. I will begin with the one done right.
The two month old Milk and Honey restaurant in Larimer Square is everything a diner paying good money expects. The location is romantic; it is in the same courtyard as Bistro Vendome, albeit one level down. We were told the extensive renovation of the space which spanned two years included digging an additional 5 feet of space under ground. This design foresight has succeeded in a space that feels roomy rather than cave-like as many subterranean spaces tend to feel. The exposed red brick contrasts nicely with the creamy upholstery. Dimly lit, although not so much that presbyopes are at a loss even with their reading glasses, the room inspires intimacy. The temperature was the only misfire as it was a bit nippy even for a summer eve. If not for the impending rain clouds overhead, we might have chosen to dine al fresco.
Equal attention is paid to staff selection at Milk and Honey. We were warmly greeted and seated by an elegant and leggy hostess in such on-trend garb as to rival any Soho establishment. Our patient and erudite server reminds me of Keanu Reeves, an esthetic mix of Asian and European ancestry.
Upon perusing the menu (which changes monthly), I gather that it is based on French techniques with Asian, Mediterranean, and Italian influence. For instance, we started with the Foie Gras Bon Bons. Foie Gras, or "fat goose", is most definitely French. For a unique twist, balls of the rich liver are frozen with liquid nitrogen, then dusted in a cashew brittle, and served with a tart cherry syrup. I have never experienced anything quite like it. It was sweet, it was creamy, it was rich, it was crunchy. I can eat it for dessert!
The "small" plate of Honey Laquered Lamb Belly was rather substantial and rivaled the foie gras in richness. A square of lamb belly seared perfectly and lightly glazed with honey is served on a wood plank. The meat was mild in flavor and fork tender with just the right amount of fat. The accompanying mint apple gelee did not really taste of mint. The contrast to the rich meat was provided by the slaw of julienned tart apples and red peppers with chiffonade mint leaves. This was a bite of brightness, crunch, and tang. Having had pork belly in many iterations, I am a convert to the leaner but still flavorful lamb.
Having graduated from culinary school, I consider myself versed in cooking terminology. At Milk and Honey, I was excited to discover unfamiliar lexicon. The small plate of Charred Octopus arrived atop a mound of stewed tomatoes and cranberry beans which were referred to as barlotti. Artfully drizzled at the edge of the gorgeous plate was a bright green herb infused olive oil called chermoula. This northern Africa sauce/marinade is frequently used with seafood. It did provide a brightness to the smoky and succulent octopus. Unfortunately, the beans were undercooked and lacking in creaminess.
Our next plate was a salad of Heirloom Tomatoes. This thoughtfully arranged plate came with four different varieties of tomatoes. The seasonal tomatoes were ripe and juicy. The yellow cherry tomato was a burst of sunshine in your mouth. Shaved parmesan and cucumber slivers graced the salad as well as a single sprig of licoricey fennel frond. A drizzle of olive oil, good balsamic and aromatic shallots was all this plate needed to show off simple summer goodness.
We made the right call to split the Hanger Steak after witnessing several plates go by. A thick rope of nicely charred steak cooked to order at medium rare was juicy and delicious. This cut of beef is prized for its flavor and often hoarded by butchers for their own consumption. A swoosh of black truffle vinaigrette added a hint of tartness to the steak with each bite. The string beans had been blanched and shocked to retain their brightness while maintaining the correct doneness. Red cherry tomatoes added visual interest and additional acidity.
The service was almost seamless with one exception. We waited a while for our bottle to arrive. Another table's wine was brought to us by mistake. When our French Bordeaux finally arrived, it paired exceptionally well with each course. The Fleur d'Amelie, a right bank Bordeaux, has Merlot as the dominant grape. I was impressed with the number of excellent wines without exorbitant price tags.
We would have loved to enjoy some coffee with dessert, but had to rush to "The Book of Mormon". I can't even begin to imagine what sweet delights await after the sensational feast we just had. I am beyond thrilled to introduce you to this wonderful new jewel, and eagerly anticipate my next culinary adventure here. Bon Appetite!