A Gastronomic Tour of New Orleans

     Last week, I began my first post culinary school eating tour in New Orleans.  I have been to New Orleans many times, but they were before I had any culinary knowledge and never during Mardi Gras.  Staying a block off Bourbon Street immerses you in the midst of the madness; however, I was there for some of the best fine dining in the country, and not for the booze fest.  Although Michelin Stars are reserved for East and West coast cities, there are many notable James Beard Awardees in New Orleans.  I had the good fortune of working with an excellent cook during my externship who worked in New Orleans.  He gave me tips on where and what to eat while in the Big Easy.  All of his recommendations proved to be superb.
     New Orleans is home to everything from low country cooking to elevated creole cuisine to formal southern dining.  Some of the standout New Orleans fare I experienced for the first time include the iconic Muffuletta sandwich from Central Grocery.  This Italian grocery store dates back to 1906.  The Muffuletta was invented by the owner to feed local merchants selling their ware in the French Quarter.  The store is an authentic relic of earlier times.  The smallish space is filled with a plethora of Italian imports in jars and cans.  The staff were already stacking up the Muffuletta sandwiches at 9 in the morning for the lunch rush later. What makes this sandwich so outstanding?  It's gotta be the bread and olive salad spread.  A lustrous, 10 inch round, seed dusted loaf hugs thinly sliced layers of Italian cold cuts and cheeses topped with the family's secret olive salad spread.  Grab a cold one and a seat at the counter and enjoy every toothsome bite of this truly memorable gift. 
     Switching gears to the opposite extreme finds me at Commander's Palace in the Garden District.  A short street car ride will relieve you from the debauchery of the French Quarter and deposit you to the stately mansions of the old south.  Sitting impressively across from Lafayette Cemetery, Commander's Palace is all turquoise and white opulence.  This is no place for slouches.  Men must wear closed toed shoes and collared shirts, and don a jacket for dinner.  We dined at lunch, and true to legend, martinis (in four varieties) are 25 cents each with a cap at three per person.  Having given up alcohol for Lent, no I am not Catholic, I watched enviously while Don polished off one then another.  The service was very formal and top notch.  The stand out fare for me was the trio of soups.  I could not decide between the famed turtle soup and the soup of the day, oyster chowder.  Fortunately, my dilemma was resolved by the trio of demi cup soup offering.  I was able to sample both of the soups as well as the chicken and andouille gumbo.  All were quite delicious and unique.  Alligator snap turtle  is cooked for three days which explains why the meat is so tender; it is reminiscent of stewed beef.  A splash of sherry rounds the soup.  The oyster chowder was swimming with whole oysters.  It was thick and creamy and a nice contrast to the other two soups which had more heat.  The gumbo was cooked equally lovingly with well developed brown roux and generous bites of meat.
     Our hands down favorite dish has to be the spaghetti with guanciale (cured pork cheek/or what we lovingly referred to as face bacon in school) and poached/fried egg at Herbsaint in the warehouse district.  Herbsaint is the first restaurant amongst the empire of James Beard winner, chef Donald Link.  My mind was consumed by the Muscovy duck confit, and was not expecting to be blown away by a pasta dish.   Having made fresh pasta for 10 weeks, I consider myself somewhat of a connoisseur.  The foremost common mistake with pasta is over cooking.  Not here.  The noodles were perfectly al diente and lacquered with a delicate ivory cream sauce dotted with chunks of chewy guanciale.  The piece de resistance  was the poached/fried egg.  This conundrum intrigued me as a culinarian.  I was eager to witness this marvel and was not disappointed.  A perfect sphere of battered and deep fried egg sat atop the noodles, and upon slicing, the yolk oozed out in all its glory to tango with the spaghetti.  My fellow foodies, this is as sensual as you will get to food.  
     Below are photos of our New Orleans fare:

The Muffuletta at Central Grocery

Trio of Soups at Commander's Palace

Spaghetti with Poached/Fried Egg and Guanciale

Commander's Palace

Local Oysters at Peche Seafood Grill

Key Lime Pie at Peche

Duck Confit with Citrus Gastrique at Herbsaint

Shrimp and Grits at Commander's Palace

Restaurant Review: Riffs, Boulder, CO

     Restauranteur and chef John Platte, formally of Q's at the Boulderado, opened a restaurant on Pearl Street next to the Boulder Book Store.  This is the eatery where we were mistaken for food critics some five years ago, probably due to the astonishing quantity of food we ordered.  Little did I know at the time that I would be reviewing restaurants today.  So, it's fitting that I find myself back at Riffs.
     Riffs is so named because, similar to improvised jazz riffs, the chef's cooking style takes on variations of classical cooking.  Chef John has a special place in my heart.  It was his chef's tasting menu at Q's that sparked my love for fine dining.  Eating became an experience to be savored with that meal.   I detailed everything we ate so I could relive the experience.  
     The restaurant is warm and lively with exposed brick and plentiful lighting.   Floor to ceiling windows entertain with great views of Pearl Street and all of its shenanigans.   The bar is high and long.  The kitchen is teeny tiny.  Anymore than three people on the line and it will be too many cooks in the kitchen.  On this night, I am delighted to see Chef John busy working on the line.
     The theme of the restaurant is a gathering place for folks to imbibe on great food and tasty libations.  They have a cocktail program, draft as well as bottled beers, and a wine list comprising of old and new world varieties stateside and around the globe.  Only two were not available by the glass.  Don chooses his old standby, the Riff's Fashioned.  The Sidecar on the specials menu appeals to me. We are dining with a friend this evening who loves gin martinis, and at our urging, tries a Hendricks gin martini with cucumber slices.  All are well crafted and generous portions.
      We order the Flash Cooked Brussel Sprouts to share as an appetizer.  Fluffy, green leaves arrive in a warm bowl with a garnish of crispy and aromatic shallots.  Toasted hazelnuts add  sweetness to this savory dish and provide additional texture.  The brussels sprout leaves are flash fried just the right length of time in brown butter.  I could eat the whole bowl by myself.
     Several specials pique my interest, in particular, the tuna poke with soba noodles, but alas, I am not to be swayed from the duck confit on the static/fixed menu.  Did I make the right choice!  True to its moniker, the duck thigh and leg arrive on a warm plate, golden, brown, and inviting with crispy skin.  The meat falls easily off the bone when I cut into the duck with my fork.  Confit means to cook in fat, usually one's own fat.  In culinary school, we slow braised duck thighs in duck fat for three hours.  It's powerful enough to cure most vegetarians.  To round off this dish are peppery arugula, roasted cauliflower which still retained some crunch, and a beautifully hued orange and date coulis (a puree of fruit/vegetable) for some citrus to cut the richness of the duck.  
     To my surprise, Don orders the Gold Potato Gnocchi with Hazel Dell mushrooms.  Even though there is no meat in this dish, it is still fulfilling for a carnivore.  Large, pillowy, and golden gnocchi swim in a sea of butternut squash, abundant mushrooms, herbal sage, and sundried tomato.  A garnish of parmesan foam, a nod to molecular gastronomy, rounds out the dish.  
     Our friend, a health conscious eater, chooses the Ahi Tuna special.   It is a minute or two over cooked.  High grade tuna should be quickly seared in a very hot pan with the inside mostly red.   We almost sent the dish back because the tuna was presented with the cooked side up hiding the red interior.  The dish is an Italian riff on tuna.  It is garnished with a puttanesca-like tomato sauce which my friend did not care for.  I also found the accompanying gnocchi to be a bit heavy for the tuna.  Well cooked, bright green haricots vert (green string beans) provide a nice crunch.
     We choose two desserts from a list which has several tempting options.  Although bland in appearance, the desserts we chose are a satisfying last note.  The Warm Apple Turnover is a flaky puff pastry halved to expose a filling of caramelized apple goodness.  Good old vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of calvados (liquor from France) caramel is all that is needed for this dessert.  My favorite, however, is the Lemon Song.  Like a heartfelt ballad, it makes me weep.  The creamiest lemon pudding cake is topped with whipped cream so dense I thought it was ice cream.  A bite with the candied lemon zest, and I am in heaven.
     I am ecstatic that Riffs is still thriving.  The service from the hostess to the waitstaff is caring and friendly.  My server actually called me "darlin".  We were allowed to linger well after the meal without feeling unwelcome.  In fact, several staff came to refill our water glasses.  The best part of Riffs is the price.  Nothing is over $20.  This is one establishment worth more than what you pay for.

Sidecar

Riff's Fashioned

Flash Cooked Brussels Sprouts

Hendrick's Gin Martini

Duck Confit

Ahi Tuna Special

Gold Potato Gnocchi with Parmesan Foam

Warm Apple Turnovers

The Lemon Song

Restaurant Review: Charcoal

     Whenever we take in a play at the Curious Theater, which is not often enough, we welcome Charcoal restaurant as part of the evening.  It is a consistently superb fine dining experience.  Opened about three years ago to rave reviews, chef Patrik, who is Swedish, runs a tight ship with great attention to detail.  The menu is static yet always tweaked to perfection.  This is one restaurant that seems to improve each time we dine here.  
     The interior of the restaurant is spacious with a Japanese esthetic in that lines are clean, materials are elegant, and colors are calming.  This is true from the bar to the see through "wine cellar" (which divides the bar from the dining area), to the open kitchen, to the bathrooms. 
     The wine list is extensive and worldly with a variety of new and old world wines and many by the glass options. 
The menu helpfully offer suggested wine pairings.  The cocktails are also high end and well executed.   
     Prices are high here, but you get what you paid for.   The beet salad may be a shock at $14 but it is one of the most well thought out plates I have ever encountered.  There are multiple elements which are delightful to taste individually and balanced when eaten together.  Golden beets are lovingly peeled and halved with the "tail" on.  They are surrounded by a symphony of herbal green salad with parsley and pea shoots.  Translucent slivers of shaved turnips and carrots add color and texture to the greens.  Delving further, you will find crisp flash fried parsnip chips and candied walnut pieces to provide a hint of sweetness to this dish.  Blood orange supremes and a candied orange slice impart elegance and add another depth of flavor.  I find the requisite goat cheese with most beet salads superfluous, but in this case, the dollops of Broken Shovel goat cheese enhance the lightness and brightness of this dish.  It is a wonderful start to the meal and not so filling that you can't imagine eating the entrees.
     I must make note of the house made foccaccia.  It is served warm, perfectly cooked, and airy.  What stands out is the accompanying olive oil.  It is clean and grassy without any bitterness; the exact opposite of my first experience with olive oil which tasted like melted candle wax.
     On the recommendation of our knowledgeable and enthusiastic waiter I ordered the sustainably sourced Branzini (sea bass) from Turkey as my entree. The skin is left on both sides of the fish along with the tail but the head and bones removed.  This makes for a impressive presentation.  The skin is crisp until the last bite, even after a spritz of the thoughtfully grilled lemon half.  It does not need more than the lemony, herbal gremolata garnish.  The tempura zucchini fries are crunchy and sweet.  The fennel, orange, and peashoot salad  balances the unctuousness of the fish with some acidity and mild bitterness.  The suggested wine pairing of Albarino with this dish was exceptional.  It is acidic, medium bodied, with a long finish and pairs perfectly with the Branzini.  
     Don, torn between the quail special and the pork dish could not resist pork three ways.  The dish is sure to please any carnivore.  It comes with a perfectly caramelized cube of confit pork belly, four slices of grilled tenderloin, and a halved pork sausage (knackwurst).  The meats are well cooked but all taste uniformly sweet.  This is perhaps attributable to the reduction drizzled over the dish.  Caramelized apple wedges, cubed carrots and parsley, and a very sweet root vegetable puree extend the sweet flavor profile.  I find myself craving pickled vegetables for balance.  A wine high in acidity would pair well with this cloying dish  
     We should have ordered cheese for dessert after all this sugar, but at the mention of a house pastry chef, we opted for the chocolate caramel creme instead. It is a  three layer concoction served in an old fashioned glass with a base of pecan brownie, a caramel cremeux (soft pudding), topped with milk chocolate mousse.  The only glitch of the meal happened at the finale when our dessert came before the freshly brewed coffee.
     Happily, our meal did not leave me so bloated and sleepy that I couldn't enjoy the play.   We will happily return to Charcoal knowing we'll receive top notch service and consistency in quality of the food.

open kitchen

Beet Salad

Candied orange section

Branzini

Duroc Pork three ways

Chocolate caramel creme

     

Restaurant Review: Dae Gee Korean BBQ

     On a cold winter's night, barbecue seems an elusive dream.  The thought of standing outside in the snow grilling for dinner does not sound appealing.  Luckily, Dae Gee Korean BBQ is just a short drive away where you can barbecue to your heart's content indoors.
     If you have never had Korean food, Dae Gee, which means pig, is a fun introduction.  Korean food, in addition to barbecuing, involves an abundance of pickling and fermentation, mostly of vegetables.  This preservation technique allows for access to foods year round.  Koreans also love spicy food.  At Dae Gee, you will be presented promptly after ordering with an eye opening array of small dishes (banchan) which typify Korean food culture.  These dishes include the iconic kim chee (pickled vegetables), spicy pickled cucumbers, marinated fish cakes, sesame bean sprouts, sweet potato pancakes, and a salad of cabbage, onions, red peppers, and mushrooms with a fermented bean dressing.  Of course rice is a standard accompaniment.  These bites serve a dual purpose of whetting your appetite as well as entertainment while you wait for your meats to cook.  
   For the Korean barbecue neophyte, you may, as we did, opt for the unlimited barbecue which includes 6 types of proteins: brisket, chicken thighs, beef bulgogi (thin sliced marinated ribeye), pork bulgogi, pork belly, and LA Galbee (marinated short ribs).  For $19.95 (dinner price) or the even more affordable lunch price of $14.95, you can reorder five of the above to your heart's content.  You cook the meats on a grill centered in a specially designed tabletop.   My favorite is the tender and flavorful LA Galbee, which is unfortunately the one limited item.  All other meats are tasty with the exception of the pork belly which is just too fatty for my taste.   Next time, I will opt for either the LA Galbee or the squid.    
   Aside from barbecue, Dae Gee also serves traditional Korean entrees such as the more familiar bibimbop (a rice bowl topped with assorted vegetables and/or protein and a raw egg which is cooked by the hot rice when you stir it up) as well as a variety of spicy soups.  They also have a limited variety of beers (Asian and American) and wines to polish off all this stimulating food.  
    Currently located in a strip mall in Arvada at Sheridan and 75th, and soon to open in Denver, Dae Gee is a welcome ethnic addition to these parts.  Usually one has to trek out to Aurora for Korean.  The staff is young and energetic with the most gorgeous Korean girls.  The only caveat is do not wear your good clothes unless you want to smell like Korean barbecue!  Just call me when you go so I can come with.

What I Learned From School

      I learned a ton in culinary school, and not just about cooking.  I now know what to do with a grocery cart full of food, but I am still not in love with cooking.  I much prefer eating.  Cooking is not an enjoyable leisure for a perfectionist/control freak.  But, now that I know so much, it's harder to eat out.  Most places are not up to par.
     I also learned that my passion is not so much food, but learning itself.  I could go to school indefinitely.  I once saw a bumper sticker that said, "A True Scholar Never Graduates".  I love that.  Part of my fondness for learning is being surrounded by young people.  They infuse me with youthful energy.  Maybe I just haven't grown up.
     Additionally, I find that I truly enjoy writing.  I have embraced the creative process.  Similar to painting or other art forms, I have learned that there is no limit to editing.   Having no professional or amateur writing background, I am thrilled to have a small following of readers.  I am eternally grateful for their support and encouragement.  Having a culinary education definitely makes me feel more qualified to write about food.
     Another epiphany I have had is that despite earning a quarter of my customary income, I am happier than ever. I was somewhat misanthropic in the past, but find I am less antisocial than I thought.  I realize I have a great life.  When I see my friends working double shifts every day at two restaurants, I cannot complain. 
     If you were to ask how the overall experience of culinary school was, I would say, "It wasn't fun but I enjoyed the challenge".

    

Bistro Barbes, Park Hill, Denver

     Bistro Barbes is named after a neighborhood in Paris where the chef/owner once lived.  According to the manager, the neighborhood is infused with a variety of immigrants.  The menu at Bistro Barbes is a fusion of French, Mediterranean, and North Africa.
    The restaurant is located in an unfamiliar and rather sketchy part of Park Hill.  Other than the glow from the restaurant, there was no other activity around.  Walking to the restaurant felt a bit desolate, although once inside, one is quickly ensconced in the cozy and tight space.  I counted 32 tops including four at the counter, which is where they could accommodate us on short notice.  I have been unsuccessful in securing any reservations at Bistro Barbes since it was named one of 5280's top restaurants, and now I know why.
     From our vantage point, I could see the entire staff:  three front of house and four in the back.  The executive chef was expediting (not cooking but checking orders in and out and ensuring dishes were plated to his specifications).  There was a sauté chef, and a pantry chef, and a dish washer doing most dishes by hand.  The manager/hostess/bartender/server was the girlfriend of the executive chef.  Along with two other servers, they provided attentive service.  This place was a study in efficiency.
     The menu proved equally succinct.  A single page listed the week's menu which consisted of three to four appetizers and four to five entrees.  Although limited, there was enough variety in the entrees to please most diners.  We were promptly served the amuse bouche (a small bite which is not on the menu but a gift from the chef).  It was a chickpea puree with harissa (a mediterranean hot chili pepper paste) atop a house made potato chip.   This single bite sets the tone for what's to come.  The creamy chickpeas contrasted nicely with the crunch of the potato chip.  The harissa provided just enough heat and some color.  
     We selected a couple of appealing house cocktails.  The Boulevardier was reminiscent of a Manhattan with rye, vermouth, and campari.  The Winter Margarita with house made mix and tequila had a delicious chili rim, a welcoming touch on a chill winter night.  Do not be so foolish as to forgo the baguette and butter.  The crust was the perfect golden color and broke with hearty crunch.  Kudos to the chef for serving room temperature butter as they do in France.  Butter should not be so hard that it doesn't spread, nor so cold that you can't taste it.  Unless they don't want you to.
     Our appetizer was the ubiquitous pork belly.  Everyone has some version these days.  I am happy to say Bistro Barbes' pork belly had very little fat unlike many places.  The skin could have been crispier, but the apple fennel salad added crunch and sweetness, and the acidity from the pickled purple cabbage slaw balanced the fattiness of the pork belly.
     I chose the scallops for my entree.  Four substantial sea scallops sat atop beluga lentils (looks like caviar), celery root puree, and a truffle buerre blanc sauce.  It was accompanied by a slaw of finely julienned granny smith apples.  The dish was well seasoned and the scallops had nice caramelization.  I wished for more of the sauce.  Don chose what appeared to be the very popular short rib entree.  A large, deboned portion of fork tender meat sat atop brie welted spinach and orange cumin carrots and surrounded by beautifully seared, pillowy gnocchi.  It was a true comfort dish.  We polished off the entrees with a couple glasses of wine from the, again, compact but interesting, list.  I had the grenache blanc (from Rhone, France).  It was medium bodied, crisp, and dry with hints of apple which was a nice complement to the apples in the scallop dish.  Don chose and Italian red, barbera d'alba from piedmont.  It held up well to the short rib.
     For dessert, the chef took some artistic license.  There was a panna cotta with torchon foie gras which was just a little too exotic for me.  We opted for the safer pot de creme with three layers: a chocolate ganache base, an expresso custard, and topped with the most delicate and flavorful lemon foam.  Having made many tuille (thin wafer cookie) unsuccessfully, I was impressed with the perfectly made tuille garnish.  It was equally delicious as it was visually stunning.
     I cannot express enough how impressed I am with this little restaurant.  Care is oozing out of every pore.  I encourage everyone to venture out of their gentrified suburbs and give this place a visit.  My sincerest wish is for great success without expansion as this would diminish the soul and character that is Bistro Barbes.  Bon appetite!

Amuse Bouche

Winter Margarita

Pork Belly Appetizer

The kitchen

The dining room

Scallops with beluga lentils

Short ribs with sunchoke gnocchi

Cappuccino pot de creme with tuille

Top Ten Post Externship Activities

     
      

     The last day of my externship is January 18th.  These
are the top ten items on my post externship to do list:

     1.  Paint my fingernails!
     2.  Burn my uniforms!
     3.  Hide my non-skid Danskos in the deep recess of                 my closet, where hopefully they will remain for all eternity.
     4.  Go to Reykjavik and soak in the healing waters of the Blue Lagoon.
     5.  Eat my way through NYC.  Look out Momofuku!
     6.  Eat my way through the rest of the country.
     7.  Put on stilettos.
     8.  Ride the powder in the mountains.
     9.  Finish watching "Mind of a Chef".
    10. NOT cook!

Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Chef Marcus Samuelsson of Red Rooster in Harlem, NY

Momofuku Ramen!

Husk, Charleston, NC