Epicurean Encounters: Restaurant Review: Riffs, Boulder, CO

Restauranteur and chef John Platte, formally of Q's at the Boulderado, opened a restaurant on Pearl Street next to the Boulder Book Store. This is the eatery where we were mistaken for food critics some five years ago, probably due to the astonishing quantity of food we ordered. Little did I know at the time that I would be reviewing restaurants today. So, it's fitting that I find myself back at Riffs.
Riffs is so named because, similar to improvised jazz riffs, the chef's cooking style takes on variations of classical cooking. Chef John has a special place in my heart. It was his chef's tasting menu at Q's that sparked my love for fine dining. Eating became an experience to be savored with that meal. I detailed everything we ate so I could relive the experience.
The restaurant is warm and lively with exposed brick and plentiful lighting. Floor to ceiling windows entertain with great views of Pearl Street and all of its shenanigans. The bar is high and long. The kitchen is teeny tiny. Anymore than three people on the line and it will be too many cooks in the kitchen. On this night, I am delighted to see Chef John busy working on the line.
The theme of the restaurant is a gathering place for folks to imbibe on great food and tasty libations. They have a cocktail program, draft as well as bottled beers, and a wine list comprising of old and new world varieties stateside and around the globe. Only two were not available by the glass. Don chooses his old standby, the Riff's Fashioned. The Sidecar on the specials menu appeals to me. We are dining with a friend this evening who loves gin martinis, and at our urging, tries a Hendricks gin martini with cucumber slices. All are well crafted and generous portions.
We order the Flash Cooked Brussel Sprouts to share as an appetizer. Fluffy, green leaves arrive in a warm bowl with a garnish of crispy and aromatic shallots. Toasted hazelnuts add sweetness to this savory dish and provide additional texture. The brussels sprout leaves are flash fried just the right length of time in brown butter. I could eat the whole bowl by myself.
Several specials pique my interest, in particular, the tuna poke with soba noodles, but alas, I am not to be swayed from the duck confit on the static/fixed menu. Did I make the right choice! True to its moniker, the duck thigh and leg arrive on a warm plate, golden, brown, and inviting with crispy skin. The meat falls easily off the bone when I cut into the duck with my fork. Confit means to cook in fat, usually one's own fat. In culinary school, we slow braised duck thighs in duck fat for three hours. It's powerful enough to cure most vegetarians. To round off this dish are peppery arugula, roasted cauliflower which still retained some crunch, and a beautifully hued orange and date coulis (a puree of fruit/vegetable) for some citrus to cut the richness of the duck.
To my surprise, Don orders the Gold Potato Gnocchi with Hazel Dell mushrooms. Even though there is no meat in this dish, it is still fulfilling for a carnivore. Large, pillowy, and golden gnocchi swim in a sea of butternut squash, abundant mushrooms, herbal sage, and sundried tomato. A garnish of parmesan foam, a nod to molecular gastronomy, rounds out the dish.
Our friend, a health conscious eater, chooses the Ahi Tuna special. It is a minute or two over cooked. High grade tuna should be quickly seared in a very hot pan with the inside mostly red. We almost sent the dish back because the tuna was presented with the cooked side up hiding the red interior. The dish is an Italian riff on tuna. It is garnished with a puttanesca-like tomato sauce which my friend did not care for. I also found the accompanying gnocchi to be a bit heavy for the tuna. Well cooked, bright green haricots vert (green string beans) provide a nice crunch.
We choose two desserts from a list which has several tempting options. Although bland in appearance, the desserts we chose are a satisfying last note. The Warm Apple Turnover is a flaky puff pastry halved to expose a filling of caramelized apple goodness. Good old vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of calvados (liquor from France) caramel is all that is needed for this dessert. My favorite, however, is the Lemon Song. Like a heartfelt ballad, it makes me weep. The creamiest lemon pudding cake is topped with whipped cream so dense I thought it was ice cream. A bite with the candied lemon zest, and I am in heaven.
I am ecstatic that Riffs is still thriving. The service from the hostess to the waitstaff is caring and friendly. My server actually called me "darlin". We were allowed to linger well after the meal without feeling unwelcome. In fact, several staff came to refill our water glasses. The best part of Riffs is the price. Nothing is over $20. This is one establishment worth more than what you pay for.