Monday, September 29, 2014

5280 Lists Denver's 25 Best Restaurants

     The much anticipated issue of 5280's annual 25 best Denver restaurants is here.  My goal is to eat my way through the list, such is my dedication to restaurant reviewing.
     I begin with a Highland favorite, Duo.  First opened in 2005, Duo has been a regular on numerous Denver's best restaurants lists.  I have only been to Duo once and for brunch.  Now was a good time for a revisit.  
     We made reservations for a Sunday night, one of the few on 5280's list of restaurants open on Sunday.  We easily found street parking.  The open and cozy dining room is rustic with exposed brick, overhead duct work, and decorative window panes.  Even the lighting fixtures resemble mixing bowls.  The kitchen looks out into the dining space.  All the chefs that night were women.  Rare, but serendipitous.  We were seated next to the windows which allowed for entertaining street viewing.
     The menu was succinct and featured seasonal produce.  The server brought a sampling of flavorful house marinated olives.  The wine list had a well rounded selection of wines by the glass.  Don chose a French Syrah blend from the Rhone region, and I ordered a Nebbiolo/Barbera from the Piedmont region in Italy.  Both were full bodied and complex.  
    We ordered the open faced Lamb Tartine to start.  It came with shaved lamb atop a smear of grainy mustard on three grilled, hearty, artisan toasts, garnished with julienned pickled radish and red onions.  The lamb was somewhat lacking in flavor or perhaps overshadowed by the accouterments.  
    The Farmer's Market Salad came with julienned squash, mixed greens, heirloom tomatoes, and the  perfect amount of charred leek dressing.  
    Our entrees of Buffalo Sirloin and Bershire Porkchop were more rustic than refined in presentation.  My buffalo was cooked medium rare and more tender and flavorful than most beef.  The potatoes in the fricassee were flavorful but slightly underdone.  Don's pork chop was a bone in, thick cut, and flavorful, however, the smear of barbecue sauce on top obscured the grill marks and was a bit of a turn off aesthetically.  His green beans were also undercooked.
     Even though it was a Sunday night, we decided to indulge in some French press coffee with our dessert.  The flourless chocolate cake was an artistic rectangular slab rather than the ubiquitous wedge.  Two beautifully quinnelled (oval shape) pumpkin chantilly cream and tuille cookies complimented the cake.  
     Service was very good for a busy night.  New silverware was presented after each plate.  The server was very knowledgeable about both the wines and the food.  Coffee was hot and pressed for us at the table.
     Overall, I think Duo pays attention to details, especially in their meticulous knife cuts, and is a good value for your money.  
Lamb Tartine

Farmer's Market Salad


Duo's Kitchen


Buffalo Sirloin

Bershire Porkchop

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Pumpkin Chantilly

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