Monday, January 4, 2016
Last Course
Thank you dear, loyal readers for indulging me these past months by reading my blog. Thank you for allowing me to share with you my musings on a topic close to my heart. At this time, I am closing my blog, epicurean encounters, to pursue other interests. Sincerest thanks to you for all your support, and bon appetite!
Friday, December 18, 2015
Grill and Vine, Westin DIA (Denver International Airport)
Recently, while traveling out of state, we decided to wander over to the new Westin at the airport. Having been open just a mere week, the hotel was already hopping with clientele. It is indeed sleek, modern, and stark. The Westin currently has one sit down restaurant open called Grill and Vine. It is warmly appointed, a happy contrast to the rest of the hotel and convention center. It is a moderately upscale grill with something for everyone from grandpa to the toddler.
I immediately noticed the whimsical window decals of all the Denver neighborhoods. On the ceiling is a simplified map of these neighborhoods. Both touches are a thoughtful homage to our beloved city. Warm tones and lighting throughout the restaurant provide incentive to not dine and dash. The waitstaff were professionally attired and diligent without being obsequious.
True to its moniker, the wine list is appropriately edited with whites and reds mostly from California, both by the glass and bottle. We opted for the cocktails which were too enticing to pass up. My Smoke and Spice cocktail was a tequila and hot (as in piquant) cider concoction. Jalepeno slices provided an additional layer of heat. Don's Copper Mine Shaft was made with our favorite Colorado whiskey, Stranahan's. A cousin to the Old Fashioned, this amber elixir, spiked with walnut bitters is a warm welcome on a chill winter's eve.
The well edited one page menu had several tempting items. However, we were seduced by the pappardelle with lamb ragu. A generous portion of slow simmered meat sauce sat atop a tangle of perfectly al dente wide fresh pasta. Each delectable bite was edible comfort. The scant shaved parmesan cheese was a tease. More would have been welcome. A nice glass of Malbec complimented this hearty winter dish.
After perusing the tempting side dishes, I decided to order three of them as my meal. Each came in it's own adorable crockette. The roasted vegetables had chunks of sweet golden beets and festive red and green peppers. It was good, but more time in the oven would have added more caramelization. Ditto with the brussels sprouts, however, the accompanying bacon lardons were crisp and sweet. My favorite by far was the fingerling potatoes with caramelized onions. Cooked to golden, the potatoes were cut length wise and roasted skin on. The exterior remained crispy while the interior stayed hot and creamy. The sweetness of the caramelized onions complimented the otherwise plain potatoes.
On the enthusiastic endorsement of our server, we chose a Chili Spiced Chocolate Cremeux (pudding) for dessert. After waiting for what seemed an unusually long intermission, we were informed that all the desserts were held up in catering at the convention center. This is an egregious miscommunication between the kitchen and front of house that left a bitter impression at the end of an otherwise lovely meal. We almost called it off, but our server apologized profusely and comped the dessert. Fortunately, it was worth the wait. The contrast of the rich chocolate pudding laced with spicy ancho chili was genius. A honey cream element took some heat off if you wished. Crispy cookie crumbles was necessary to add crunch to the creamy dessert. Stewed cherries added fruity tartness to the rich chocolate. It was a satisfying dessert and plentiful to share.
I am pleased to have another fine dining option whenever I am stranded at the airport, especially after they smooth out some service kinks.
I immediately noticed the whimsical window decals of all the Denver neighborhoods. On the ceiling is a simplified map of these neighborhoods. Both touches are a thoughtful homage to our beloved city. Warm tones and lighting throughout the restaurant provide incentive to not dine and dash. The waitstaff were professionally attired and diligent without being obsequious.
True to its moniker, the wine list is appropriately edited with whites and reds mostly from California, both by the glass and bottle. We opted for the cocktails which were too enticing to pass up. My Smoke and Spice cocktail was a tequila and hot (as in piquant) cider concoction. Jalepeno slices provided an additional layer of heat. Don's Copper Mine Shaft was made with our favorite Colorado whiskey, Stranahan's. A cousin to the Old Fashioned, this amber elixir, spiked with walnut bitters is a warm welcome on a chill winter's eve.
The well edited one page menu had several tempting items. However, we were seduced by the pappardelle with lamb ragu. A generous portion of slow simmered meat sauce sat atop a tangle of perfectly al dente wide fresh pasta. Each delectable bite was edible comfort. The scant shaved parmesan cheese was a tease. More would have been welcome. A nice glass of Malbec complimented this hearty winter dish.
After perusing the tempting side dishes, I decided to order three of them as my meal. Each came in it's own adorable crockette. The roasted vegetables had chunks of sweet golden beets and festive red and green peppers. It was good, but more time in the oven would have added more caramelization. Ditto with the brussels sprouts, however, the accompanying bacon lardons were crisp and sweet. My favorite by far was the fingerling potatoes with caramelized onions. Cooked to golden, the potatoes were cut length wise and roasted skin on. The exterior remained crispy while the interior stayed hot and creamy. The sweetness of the caramelized onions complimented the otherwise plain potatoes.
On the enthusiastic endorsement of our server, we chose a Chili Spiced Chocolate Cremeux (pudding) for dessert. After waiting for what seemed an unusually long intermission, we were informed that all the desserts were held up in catering at the convention center. This is an egregious miscommunication between the kitchen and front of house that left a bitter impression at the end of an otherwise lovely meal. We almost called it off, but our server apologized profusely and comped the dessert. Fortunately, it was worth the wait. The contrast of the rich chocolate pudding laced with spicy ancho chili was genius. A honey cream element took some heat off if you wished. Crispy cookie crumbles was necessary to add crunch to the creamy dessert. Stewed cherries added fruity tartness to the rich chocolate. It was a satisfying dessert and plentiful to share.
I am pleased to have another fine dining option whenever I am stranded at the airport, especially after they smooth out some service kinks.
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| Copper Mine Shaft and Smoke and Spice |
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| Complimentary Olive Walnut bread |
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| Roasted Vegetables |
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| Fingerling potatoes |
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| Brussels Sprouts with Bacon |
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| Pappardelle with Lamb Ragu |
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| Chili Chocolate Cremeux |
Thursday, November 26, 2015
The Hideaway Steakhouse, Westminster, CO
What could be a more fitting celebration of my husband's retirement than an old school steak dinner for an "old guy", (his words)? I could think of no rival. So, when he suggested The Hideaway Steakhouse in Westminster, I demurred even though I am skeptical of its suburban location. There are a plethora of excellent steak joints in Denver, but Westminster? I vowed to keep an open mind.
Contrary to its moniker, the Hideway sits on a visible suburban thoroughfare. The newish building and decor are pleasant enough albeit without character like so much of suburbia. Don was expecting something more like historic Bastien's on Colfax but it was more reminiscent of an upscale Applebees.
The hostess led us to a spacious booth and inquired about our celebration to which I proudly announced my husband's much deserved retirement. To my chagrin, this did not procure any special treatment or complimentary dessert, although the adjacent table received a creme brûlée with a candle for their birthday celebration. I guess only birthdays are recognized here.
I was pleased to see elegant stemware and solid cutlery with some heft, especially after perusing the eyebrow raising menu prices. Sure, I have paid as much elsewhere, but it was commensurate with the locale. Guess folks are more affluent in Westminster than I thought.
The servers work as a team, so one person may take your appetizer order while another takes the order for the rest of the meal. I did not realize this and thought I was "cheating" on the first server. The wine menu is extensive enough although most were California wines. I had a glass of cabernet that was quite good for the value. Big, bold, and fruity, it would complement any red meat. Don had been looking forward to his gin martini with three olives ala Don Draper of Mad Men, and was not disappointed.
An interesting observation regarding the staff is their loyalty to the food, no matter the quality. One waxed poetic about the butter, which was whipped and sprinkled with pink Hawaiian salt. It was fine, but nothing that you would crave as he so effused. The salt was so scant, you couldn't even taste it. One would expect outstanding bread to complement such a revered accompaniment, but the bread was so dry and crumbly, it didn't even soak up the butter. We rarely leave good bread, but this was borderline inedible. When someone finally cleaned the trail of crumbs from said bread, I apologized for the mess but the bread was so crumbly. To my astonishment, she replied, "but it's so good"!
We each ordered a salad. My caesar were two artfully stacked hearts of Romaine, nicely trimmed. The dressing was served on the side and appropriately salty. Don's Bibb wedge was also nicely presented and happily with more blue cheese than my stingy sprinkle of parmesan. The dressing was an interesting balsamic blue cheese. It was tangy but I found it wanting for salt.
I considered ordering a non-steak entree, however, did not feel shrimp papardelle warranted $40, even for jumbo shrimp. Pasta costs dollars to make. So, I opted for the 10 oz prime New York strip. The premium USDA grading for steak is "prime" which means the most marbling and thus flavor. Always opt towards more rare, otherwise, save your money. It doesn't pay to spend so much if you are going to cook it to death. Don smartly chose the most costly buffalo ribeye at $46, but was rewarded with a most flavorful, tender, and juicy meat that he won't soon forget. Thankfully, sauces are not an additional charge unless you want more than one. The port wine brandy peppercorn was gorgeously glossy with a bite from the green peppercorns. It paired perfectly with both meat and our wine. The lemony bernaise was less successful but still enjoyable.
The highlight of our meal has to be the side of truffle fries. I don't usually order fried foods, but even though the other sides all sounded decent, why should I order something I can make at home? An inviting crockpot full of meticulously cubed yukon gold potatoes were crisp on the outside and steamy hot on the inside. Add heady truffle oil and flakes of salty parmesan, this is one sexy side that may just outshine the steak.
Service was spotty here. It was attentive and prompt initially before the crowd. But once the restaurant was full, you were left on your own. We waited several minutes for our to go box and finally had to flag someone down. We were too dejected to order dessert. I really wanted to like this place, but unfortunately I will not soon return, if ever.
Contrary to its moniker, the Hideway sits on a visible suburban thoroughfare. The newish building and decor are pleasant enough albeit without character like so much of suburbia. Don was expecting something more like historic Bastien's on Colfax but it was more reminiscent of an upscale Applebees.
The hostess led us to a spacious booth and inquired about our celebration to which I proudly announced my husband's much deserved retirement. To my chagrin, this did not procure any special treatment or complimentary dessert, although the adjacent table received a creme brûlée with a candle for their birthday celebration. I guess only birthdays are recognized here.
I was pleased to see elegant stemware and solid cutlery with some heft, especially after perusing the eyebrow raising menu prices. Sure, I have paid as much elsewhere, but it was commensurate with the locale. Guess folks are more affluent in Westminster than I thought.
The servers work as a team, so one person may take your appetizer order while another takes the order for the rest of the meal. I did not realize this and thought I was "cheating" on the first server. The wine menu is extensive enough although most were California wines. I had a glass of cabernet that was quite good for the value. Big, bold, and fruity, it would complement any red meat. Don had been looking forward to his gin martini with three olives ala Don Draper of Mad Men, and was not disappointed.
An interesting observation regarding the staff is their loyalty to the food, no matter the quality. One waxed poetic about the butter, which was whipped and sprinkled with pink Hawaiian salt. It was fine, but nothing that you would crave as he so effused. The salt was so scant, you couldn't even taste it. One would expect outstanding bread to complement such a revered accompaniment, but the bread was so dry and crumbly, it didn't even soak up the butter. We rarely leave good bread, but this was borderline inedible. When someone finally cleaned the trail of crumbs from said bread, I apologized for the mess but the bread was so crumbly. To my astonishment, she replied, "but it's so good"!
We each ordered a salad. My caesar were two artfully stacked hearts of Romaine, nicely trimmed. The dressing was served on the side and appropriately salty. Don's Bibb wedge was also nicely presented and happily with more blue cheese than my stingy sprinkle of parmesan. The dressing was an interesting balsamic blue cheese. It was tangy but I found it wanting for salt.
I considered ordering a non-steak entree, however, did not feel shrimp papardelle warranted $40, even for jumbo shrimp. Pasta costs dollars to make. So, I opted for the 10 oz prime New York strip. The premium USDA grading for steak is "prime" which means the most marbling and thus flavor. Always opt towards more rare, otherwise, save your money. It doesn't pay to spend so much if you are going to cook it to death. Don smartly chose the most costly buffalo ribeye at $46, but was rewarded with a most flavorful, tender, and juicy meat that he won't soon forget. Thankfully, sauces are not an additional charge unless you want more than one. The port wine brandy peppercorn was gorgeously glossy with a bite from the green peppercorns. It paired perfectly with both meat and our wine. The lemony bernaise was less successful but still enjoyable.
The highlight of our meal has to be the side of truffle fries. I don't usually order fried foods, but even though the other sides all sounded decent, why should I order something I can make at home? An inviting crockpot full of meticulously cubed yukon gold potatoes were crisp on the outside and steamy hot on the inside. Add heady truffle oil and flakes of salty parmesan, this is one sexy side that may just outshine the steak.
Service was spotty here. It was attentive and prompt initially before the crowd. But once the restaurant was full, you were left on your own. We waited several minutes for our to go box and finally had to flag someone down. We were too dejected to order dessert. I really wanted to like this place, but unfortunately I will not soon return, if ever.
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| The Hideaway Steakhouse Dining Room |
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| Martini |
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| Table decor |
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| Caesar Salad |
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| Bibb Wedge |
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| Bread and Butter |
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| Truffle Fries |
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| New York Strip |
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| Buffalo Ribeye |
Friday, November 13, 2015
A Few of My Favorite Things
I admit I'm rather high maintenance when it comes to eating. I love a wide variety of food, and I can't eat the same thing day after day. I don't like leftovers because I've just had it. So, it's quite an endorsement if I like something so much that I eat it regularly. There are so many great restaurants out there but not every dish is a winner. When I find one though, I find myself thinking about when I can have it again. Here are some of my favorite dishes which were a life saver the year we gave up meat. . .
In Broomfield, there are so many Pho places, but I bet you have a favorite. Mine is Pho Duy, located conveniently next to Pacific Ocean Asian market. Their pho is quite good but ever since I discovered it, I always get the Bun Bo Hue Chay, a spicy vegetarian noodle soup. When the weather cools, there is nothing more comforting than this pipping hot bowl filled with fat vermicelli noodles in a spicy, savory broth with tofu and veggies. I can smell it now. Bright green broccoli florets, crispy carrots, and straw mushrooms float alongside tofu multiple ways. There is fried tofu, dried bean curd, crispy tofu skin, and a tofu veggie fritter. Trust me, this is not the flavorless white block in a plastic container. Tofu can be exciting and exotic. All this soy protein is garnished with fresh scallions as well as crispy fried shallots, adding another dimension of flavor. You will never be so fulfilled without eating a bite of meat.
Another constant craving of mine happens to be a noodle soup from Ting's Chinese Restaurant in Lafayette. I confess, I'm partial to noodles. This dish is listed on the lunch menu, but I was told you can order it for dinner, too. For the adventurer who can't be satisfied with the pedestrian kung pao dishes, you will be enamored with this gargantuan bowl of smoky goodness. I always get the seafood combination which comes with sea scallops and shrimp. They also have beef, chicken, pork, or a combination. The broth is rich and velvety with charred Chinese cabbage, scallops, and shrimp. The result is a irreproducible umami symphony for your palate. They are as generous with the succulent seafood as the noodles. I often dream of apprenticing with the chef just to learn this dish. But for $7.50, I will happily keep eating!
Also in Lafayette is a family owned gem called Morning Glory. I am not a fan of breakfast foods but my husband loves it. I find the sweet dishes overwhelming for the first meal of the day, and the other choices a detriment to one's health. There is one dish at Morning Glory that I love that is actually healthy and delicious. It also happens to be gluten free and vegetarian. The Fried Rice Bowl is something that I would make for myself. This stunning dish has everything I love and is well balanced with healthful grains, protein, vegetables, and fat. Tender spinach leaves are lightly sautéed along with onions and earthy shitake mushrooms. Diced tomatoes and red peppers provide visual contrast and sweetness. All of which is stir fried with glistening grains of black or Forbidden rice and lightly embraced with melted white cheddar. To top it off, you get two eggs cooked to your liking. I usually get scrambled, but sunny side up would be brilliant. I will be very upset if they ever take away this wonderful dish.
So, there you have it, my favorite things to eat that I will never tire of. Please save some for me!
In Broomfield, there are so many Pho places, but I bet you have a favorite. Mine is Pho Duy, located conveniently next to Pacific Ocean Asian market. Their pho is quite good but ever since I discovered it, I always get the Bun Bo Hue Chay, a spicy vegetarian noodle soup. When the weather cools, there is nothing more comforting than this pipping hot bowl filled with fat vermicelli noodles in a spicy, savory broth with tofu and veggies. I can smell it now. Bright green broccoli florets, crispy carrots, and straw mushrooms float alongside tofu multiple ways. There is fried tofu, dried bean curd, crispy tofu skin, and a tofu veggie fritter. Trust me, this is not the flavorless white block in a plastic container. Tofu can be exciting and exotic. All this soy protein is garnished with fresh scallions as well as crispy fried shallots, adding another dimension of flavor. You will never be so fulfilled without eating a bite of meat.
Another constant craving of mine happens to be a noodle soup from Ting's Chinese Restaurant in Lafayette. I confess, I'm partial to noodles. This dish is listed on the lunch menu, but I was told you can order it for dinner, too. For the adventurer who can't be satisfied with the pedestrian kung pao dishes, you will be enamored with this gargantuan bowl of smoky goodness. I always get the seafood combination which comes with sea scallops and shrimp. They also have beef, chicken, pork, or a combination. The broth is rich and velvety with charred Chinese cabbage, scallops, and shrimp. The result is a irreproducible umami symphony for your palate. They are as generous with the succulent seafood as the noodles. I often dream of apprenticing with the chef just to learn this dish. But for $7.50, I will happily keep eating!
Also in Lafayette is a family owned gem called Morning Glory. I am not a fan of breakfast foods but my husband loves it. I find the sweet dishes overwhelming for the first meal of the day, and the other choices a detriment to one's health. There is one dish at Morning Glory that I love that is actually healthy and delicious. It also happens to be gluten free and vegetarian. The Fried Rice Bowl is something that I would make for myself. This stunning dish has everything I love and is well balanced with healthful grains, protein, vegetables, and fat. Tender spinach leaves are lightly sautéed along with onions and earthy shitake mushrooms. Diced tomatoes and red peppers provide visual contrast and sweetness. All of which is stir fried with glistening grains of black or Forbidden rice and lightly embraced with melted white cheddar. To top it off, you get two eggs cooked to your liking. I usually get scrambled, but sunny side up would be brilliant. I will be very upset if they ever take away this wonderful dish.
So, there you have it, my favorite things to eat that I will never tire of. Please save some for me!
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| Pho Duy's Bon Bo Hue Chay |
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| Ting's Seafood Noodle Soup |
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| Morning Glory's Fried Rice Bowl |
Friday, November 6, 2015
Wild Standard, Boulder, CO
In a landlocked state such as Colorado, I welcome good seafood when I can get it. Wild Standard, a sustainable seafood restaurant, recently opened on Pearl Street in Boulder. It currently has dinner service only, although it will soon be adding lunch and brunch. Usually, I prefer to let neophyte restaurants work out the kinks for a few months, but I was hankering for some good seafood after getting spoiled in Iceland, so I made reservations soon after its opening.
The place was hopping on a Friday night. The gorgeous space is decked out with abundant sconces and ornate chandeliers. In addition to a drink bar, there is a seafood bar where lots of oyster shucking was in progress. The open kitchen in the back is large and bustling. There is also a more casual bar area downstairs called the Pearl Dive. The owner, Chef Bradford Heap of Salt (Boulder) and Colterra (Niwot), was in his pristine white chef coat meeting and greeting. I got to talk to him briefly and was glad to hear his garden has recovered nicely since the flood two years ago.
If you are an adventurous foodie, you will appreciate Wild Standard's original concepts. First things first, the cocktails are plentiful and interesting. They offer something novel to traditional libations and allow you to choose a region of the world for the drink's flavor profile. For instance, India includes spices such as saffron, cumin, and cardamom. Then you pick how strong you want the drink and the spirit you desire, or you can let the mixologist recommend the liquor. Interesting concept, but not sure how adventurous folks want to be with their drinks.
Also new and exciting are chef's small plates or tastings that circulate the room in addition to the set menu. Apparently, these creations may not be seen again, so the point is for you to seize what tempts you. Cheerful servers come around with trays of small plates along with the cost which run from $6-12. It's similar to Chinese dim sum without the carts and much pricier. We chose four plates, half were very good and the other two only mediocre. The manila clams with house sausage was smoky and rich. The sword fish was cooked to perfection with a buttery sauce, mashed potatoes, and greens, all well seasoned. I found the octopus and tuna poke salad to be under seasoned but the taro chips were a nice variation to the ubiquitous corn.
From the set menu, we ordered The Fish Hold which comes in two different sizes and prices. We were sharing, so we got the large at $65. This is a smorgasbord of fresh seafood on a bed of ice which includes oysters, lobster tails, crab legs, shrimp, and a trio of condiments. The lobster tails came with warm clarified butter; a nice touch. The crab legs were sweet and salty and worth the effort. The Chimu oysters were small but creamy and great with the melon mignonette (vinegar with shallots and lemon). The poached Key West shrimp were delicious with the lemon aioli (garlic mayo). This should fix my seafood cravings for a while.
Our friends ordered the Roasted Eggplant Risotto and the Colorado trout. The creamy risotto came with seasonal veggies from the Colterra garden and garnished with parmesan. The sea bass arrived on a wood plank with crispy skin side up and a foamy buerre blanc (butter sauce). Both were very good according to our foodie companions.
We ended the night sharing two desserts. The Pistachio was a financier (French sponge cake) garnished with mascarpone, blood orange gel and carrot puree. The cake had a nice crumb and was not too sweet, but I didn't taste any pistachio initially. We determined it was in the brittle. The more satisfying Chocolate Fondant, which is gluten free, was rich and dense. The lemon curd provided a tart counterpoint.
If you come, expect warm welcome and cheerful service, but also bring your reading glasses. The place is so dim, several tables whipped out their I Phone flashlights. Also, the din is so loud that it makes for difficult conversation. We had a hard time even hearing the servers. Hopefully, the restaurant will address these two oversights.
The place was hopping on a Friday night. The gorgeous space is decked out with abundant sconces and ornate chandeliers. In addition to a drink bar, there is a seafood bar where lots of oyster shucking was in progress. The open kitchen in the back is large and bustling. There is also a more casual bar area downstairs called the Pearl Dive. The owner, Chef Bradford Heap of Salt (Boulder) and Colterra (Niwot), was in his pristine white chef coat meeting and greeting. I got to talk to him briefly and was glad to hear his garden has recovered nicely since the flood two years ago.
If you are an adventurous foodie, you will appreciate Wild Standard's original concepts. First things first, the cocktails are plentiful and interesting. They offer something novel to traditional libations and allow you to choose a region of the world for the drink's flavor profile. For instance, India includes spices such as saffron, cumin, and cardamom. Then you pick how strong you want the drink and the spirit you desire, or you can let the mixologist recommend the liquor. Interesting concept, but not sure how adventurous folks want to be with their drinks.
Also new and exciting are chef's small plates or tastings that circulate the room in addition to the set menu. Apparently, these creations may not be seen again, so the point is for you to seize what tempts you. Cheerful servers come around with trays of small plates along with the cost which run from $6-12. It's similar to Chinese dim sum without the carts and much pricier. We chose four plates, half were very good and the other two only mediocre. The manila clams with house sausage was smoky and rich. The sword fish was cooked to perfection with a buttery sauce, mashed potatoes, and greens, all well seasoned. I found the octopus and tuna poke salad to be under seasoned but the taro chips were a nice variation to the ubiquitous corn.
From the set menu, we ordered The Fish Hold which comes in two different sizes and prices. We were sharing, so we got the large at $65. This is a smorgasbord of fresh seafood on a bed of ice which includes oysters, lobster tails, crab legs, shrimp, and a trio of condiments. The lobster tails came with warm clarified butter; a nice touch. The crab legs were sweet and salty and worth the effort. The Chimu oysters were small but creamy and great with the melon mignonette (vinegar with shallots and lemon). The poached Key West shrimp were delicious with the lemon aioli (garlic mayo). This should fix my seafood cravings for a while.
Our friends ordered the Roasted Eggplant Risotto and the Colorado trout. The creamy risotto came with seasonal veggies from the Colterra garden and garnished with parmesan. The sea bass arrived on a wood plank with crispy skin side up and a foamy buerre blanc (butter sauce). Both were very good according to our foodie companions.
We ended the night sharing two desserts. The Pistachio was a financier (French sponge cake) garnished with mascarpone, blood orange gel and carrot puree. The cake had a nice crumb and was not too sweet, but I didn't taste any pistachio initially. We determined it was in the brittle. The more satisfying Chocolate Fondant, which is gluten free, was rich and dense. The lemon curd provided a tart counterpoint.
If you come, expect warm welcome and cheerful service, but also bring your reading glasses. The place is so dim, several tables whipped out their I Phone flashlights. Also, the din is so loud that it makes for difficult conversation. We had a hard time even hearing the servers. Hopefully, the restaurant will address these two oversights.
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| Pretty Powder Room |
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| The Kitchen |
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| Bar |
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| Tuna Poke |
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| Convivial Server |
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| Octopus Salad |
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| Manila Clams |
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| The Fish Hold |
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| Colorado Trout |
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| Chocolate Ganache |
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| Pistachio |
Friday, October 30, 2015
Nordic Noshings in Iceland
I have dreamt of visiting Iceland ever since I heard about the legendary Blue Lagoon ten years ago. Recently, I fulfilled that dream. Iceland is everything that you see in the commercials, jaw droppingly gorgeous and hauntingly desolate. It reminds me of Hawaii, another volcanic island, except cold. There are waterfalls galore, smile inducing rainbows, and stunning coast lines. The weather however, left something to be desired. The temperature was in the mid 40s, but when compounded with a constant drizzle and relentless winds, it makes even the heartiest tourist want to burrow under the down comforter, emerging only for a beckoning bowl of meat soup, more on this Icelandic comfort dish later.
Luckily, Icelanders know how to comfort with food. And what wonderful offerings they have! Especially if you stay away from the fermented shark and sheep head, no longer consumed by locals but offered to certain misguided if intrepid visitors. Mornings find such delights as fresh fruits including watermelon and pineapple as tasty as in Hawaii. How does a nation in the arctic circle manage such tropical produce? Hot houses! Keep in mind, the entire population of Iceland is a little over 300,000, so they don't need that many green houses.
Another tasty Icelandic breakfast staple is skyr, an Icelandic yogurt. It is rich like Greek yogurt but much creamier. To this, homemade jam is topped and eaten as is or mixed with granola or muesli. Healthy and filling, fit for any Nordic God.
Sadly, Iceland pastries are not what Americans are used to. They are denser, harder, and not as sweet. And all are served at room temp. The deceptively appealing cookies were disappointingly dry and brittle. I did fall in love with a pizza like pastry with the flakiness of a French croissant with pepperoni on top and a sweet marinara. It made for a tasty and quick breakfast on a couple occasions.
There are twice as many sheep in Iceland as they are people. These ubiquitous farm animals are allowed to roam in the mountains each summer to forage on various wild herbs. This in turn provides tasty lamb for a delectable soup that is a staple in every Icelandic household. We had this inviting dish on multiple occasions and each time it was delicious but slightly different. Some soups are thicker in consistency, like a stew, others are thinner and clearer, but all consisted of tender chunks of braised lamb with root vegetables and aromatic herbs. One was served in a gleaming copper pot with a hunk of crusty bread. Not much else is needed.
Seafood lovers will be in heaven in Iceland. They have some of the freshest and most flavorful fish and shellfish you can savor. I had an Icelandic cod called Blue Ling, a mild and sweet white fish that was superb whether simply seasoned and grilled or lightly breaded and pan fried. The sea scallops were large as silver dollars and succulent as were the shrimp, but my favorite was the Icelandic lobster. Smaller, but more flavorful than lobster from more temperate climes, their flesh had a creamy consistency that melted in your mouth. I had a lobster soup that made me weep with happiness.
I may not soon return to this beautiful country but I will remember it fondly.
Luckily, Icelanders know how to comfort with food. And what wonderful offerings they have! Especially if you stay away from the fermented shark and sheep head, no longer consumed by locals but offered to certain misguided if intrepid visitors. Mornings find such delights as fresh fruits including watermelon and pineapple as tasty as in Hawaii. How does a nation in the arctic circle manage such tropical produce? Hot houses! Keep in mind, the entire population of Iceland is a little over 300,000, so they don't need that many green houses.
Another tasty Icelandic breakfast staple is skyr, an Icelandic yogurt. It is rich like Greek yogurt but much creamier. To this, homemade jam is topped and eaten as is or mixed with granola or muesli. Healthy and filling, fit for any Nordic God.
Sadly, Iceland pastries are not what Americans are used to. They are denser, harder, and not as sweet. And all are served at room temp. The deceptively appealing cookies were disappointingly dry and brittle. I did fall in love with a pizza like pastry with the flakiness of a French croissant with pepperoni on top and a sweet marinara. It made for a tasty and quick breakfast on a couple occasions.
There are twice as many sheep in Iceland as they are people. These ubiquitous farm animals are allowed to roam in the mountains each summer to forage on various wild herbs. This in turn provides tasty lamb for a delectable soup that is a staple in every Icelandic household. We had this inviting dish on multiple occasions and each time it was delicious but slightly different. Some soups are thicker in consistency, like a stew, others are thinner and clearer, but all consisted of tender chunks of braised lamb with root vegetables and aromatic herbs. One was served in a gleaming copper pot with a hunk of crusty bread. Not much else is needed.
Seafood lovers will be in heaven in Iceland. They have some of the freshest and most flavorful fish and shellfish you can savor. I had an Icelandic cod called Blue Ling, a mild and sweet white fish that was superb whether simply seasoned and grilled or lightly breaded and pan fried. The sea scallops were large as silver dollars and succulent as were the shrimp, but my favorite was the Icelandic lobster. Smaller, but more flavorful than lobster from more temperate climes, their flesh had a creamy consistency that melted in your mouth. I had a lobster soup that made me weep with happiness.
I may not soon return to this beautiful country but I will remember it fondly.
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| Skyr, Icelandic Yogurt |
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| Meat Soup with Rye Bread |
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| Fresh Salad |
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| Icelandic Blue Ling |
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| Lamb Shank with root vegetables |
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| Bakery! |
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| They have Ramen! |
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| Jelly Donut and Mocha |
Monday, October 5, 2015
Osaka Ramen, Denver
I have been eagerly anticipating the opening of Osaka Ramen ever since Iast summer. I am a huge fan of chef Jeff Osaka, formerly of the excellent Twelve on Larimer Street which was sadly shuttered last year. Although Osaka Ramen is a departure from the continental fare of Twelve, I had no doubt it would excel under chef Osaka's capable stewardship.
Osaka Ramen is currently in two locations. One in Cherry Creek and another in RiNo (River North). I chose the RiNo location for this review. Parking is a bit of a challenge even on a weekday lunch visit; however, there is complimentary valet. The restaurant is located below ground level and next to Park Burger, another popular RiNo destination. The space is long and narrow with an open kitchen and counter seating as well as numerous tables for two. Large parties may need to call ahead so they can accommodate you.
The menu is sectioned into Small Plates, Bento Boxes, and Ramen. We began with two small plates: the green beans and the tomago gohan. The green beans were blanched and shocked to retain their vibrant color. They were then tossed with a shoyu (Japanese for soy sauce) sesame dressing and chilled. Crisp and well flavored, this was a light and refreshing appetizer. A generous sprinkling of toasted black and white sesame seeds provided umami goodness.
The tomago gohan is a patty of rice, lightly battered, and fried to a golden crisp. It came topped with a coddled egg, daikon kimchi, and slivered scallions. It was a gorgeous plate and a clever way to use up leftover rice. I found the rice indeed crispy, however a bit on the large side. The daikon kimchi was delicious and provided pungency and kick. The poached egg served as a binder for all the ingredients. However, the abundant scallion garnish was a bit overwhelming.
My friend elected to go with a beef Bento box. A beautifully presented Japanese laquer box held the beef skewers in one section, rice, and a cabbage salad in others. The beef was thin sliced sirloin, lightly marinated, grilled, then rolled up and skewered. It was a flavorful cut of meat and toothsome, not overly tough or tender. The pickled Japanese radishes simultaneously sweet and tart. Unfortunately, the cabbage salad was lackluster.
My spicy miso ramen was lovely to behold and even more satisfying to taste. The broth was variegated in color, silky and rich in mouthfeel with great depth of flavor. The spicy ground pork was packed with flavor. The egg was a disc of poached perfection and further enriched the decadent broth. The noodles, although not made in house are customized by Sun Noodles for Osaka Ramen, were cooked al diente with a delightful chewiness. I am excited to finally find a great ramen house in Denver and can't wait to try the four other ramens on the menu.
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| Front Entrance |
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| Stairs leading to Osaka Ramen |
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| Wall Art |
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| Open Kitchen with Counter Seating |
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| Green Beans |
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| Tomago Gohan |
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| Spicy Miso Ramen |
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| Beef Bento Box |
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